Stuart Goggin wrote:
>
> Hello All Olympus people, especially thow who have stripped down a 100
> f2.8.....
>
Hi Stuart,
I have not tried the 100mm, but the 35mm F2.8, the 550mm F1.8 and 85mm F2 are
built very similarly, so I guess that the mechanism is the same in the 100mm.
[snip]
>
> QUESTION 1:
> I have noticed there is appreciable "Slackness" in the aperature linkage ie
> the one that links the fstop ring to the camera, and I wondered if it is in
> fact adjustable?
>
I doubt it is adjustable. The ones I have looked into were connected using
simple claws. The mechanism should be in plain view when the mount is removed.
The only thing I think could be wrong would be that the claws are not gripping
the lever from the aperture ring correctly.
> QUESTION 2:
> I have stripped down the lense as far as removing the three screws on the
> mount to gain access to the stop down lever. This was so that I could
> "Reconnect" the stop down linkage. This allowed me to remove the entire
> silver mount complete with the linkages. Inside there are three screws
> which appear to hold a black disk, this hides the aperature blade linkages.
> Because there is some binding in the blade linkages I would like to remove
> these three screws and see If I can clean it up and enable it to move
> freely. Will it EXPLODE into a million peices if I remove these three
> screws. Is there a better way of getting at the blade linkages......
>
I have no idea.
> QUESTION 3:
> I am using this lense on an OM20 body, I have noticed that the the
> aperature ring on the lense when mounted on the body will move very freely
> in one direction but is very stiff in the other. It appears that the
> variable resistor ring that it drives in the body may have some binding. Is
> this a terminal problem? Easily fixed??????
>
Given the construction of the aperture mechanism, there will always be some
difference in resistance between the directions when the lens is mounted on
a body. My 85mm used to have a significant difference in the resistance
between left and right turn of the aperture ring, even when not mounted on a
body. Cleaning of the mechanism in the mount section helped a lot. Just wipe
the parts with tissue paper. No lubrication is needed or recommended. Be sure
to have a screwdriver that fits those tiny screws.
> Thanks for any advice.
> I tried to talk to our local authorised service centre. But they wanted
> $20 for two screws for a motor drive, I hate to think what they would
> charge for fixing this..... As I got the lense for free as a Junk lense, it
> is really not worth paying much money to fix, but it is the "neatest" zuiko
> I have, I am really impressed with the image quality I get from it, in spite
> of the many many scratches on the glass.
>
> Stuart Goggin
>
At that price you can afford to take some risks. Of course it would be a pity
to ruin such a fine lens.
I suspect that the service centre deliberately demand a very high price for
spare parts when not doing the repair themselves. They have no interest in
selling spare parts alone. So servicing the lens may not be as expensive as
you fear.
Regards
Lars
--
Lars Haven <mailto:lhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> aka <lhaven@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
"When writing about women, one must dip one's pen in a rainbow"
D. Diderot
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