On Gio, 22 ott 1998 0:52, Peter A. Klein <mailto:pklein@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>The body is an OM-2, with the pre-1978 heavily center-weighted meter
>pattern on the shutter. It looks almost new. The shutter sounds clean
and
>the slow speeds sound right.
>
>Unfortunately, I just found two things wrong with it:
>
>1. I noticed some inconsistencies between Auto and Manual meter readings,
>and after playing with the camera for a while, I think I know why. The
>meter switch is probably dirty or bad in some way. On "Auto," the meter
>will sometimes go up and down 1 to 2.5 stops' worth when the camera is
>pointed at the same spot on a blank wall. This occurs at light levels
>ranging from a sunlit house wall to typical indoor room lighting. The
>"Check" LED blinks or goes off randomly when the switch is in the "Check"
>position, and I can make it do this by moving the switch slightly back and
>forth.
>
>2. The self-timer "creeps" even when set but not yet started, so I have
to
>hold the lever fully downwards until I'm ready to start it running.
>Otherwise, I only get 4-5 seconds delay instead of 12.
Both these facts may be explained by wrong or exhausted batteries. Check if
they are of the Silver (Ag) type and if both give 1,5 V at least.
>
>Obviously, these must be fixed or I'm not keeping the camera.
>
Right, since it is a repairman who sells to you.
>The normal lens has the following inscription: OLYMPUS OM-SYSTEM
>G.ZUIKO
>AUTO-S 1:1.4 F=50mm 366340. This lens is in mint condition, no
It is *not* MC, but its amber color looks very attractive, imho.
>
>The wide angle lens has the following inscription: OLYMPUS OM-SYSTEM
>G.ZUIKO AUTO-W 1:2.8 F=35mm 132276. The lens may have been dropped
Not MC too, but a fine performer too.
>
>What I paid: $249 for the OM-2 body, $70 for the 50mm f/1.4, and $106 for
>the 35mm f/2.8. I also got (thrown in) a neck strap, a couple of skylight
>filters, a polarizer, caps, and a flash extension cord.
Ask Gary xx or Paul Van xx about this. On this list the hardest marketing
men are named "Gary" or "Paul Van", even if this rule is not written in the
faq.
>
>* If the lenses are not multicoated, how much difference will it really
>make in practical terms? I don't usually shoot straight into the sun or
>into bare light bulbs, and I always use a lens hood.
A bit of more flare if the light source is inside the frame or if direct
rays are not shadowed by a hood. BTW both lenses do use the same hood.
>
>* Looking over the lens tests on the Web, the 50mm f/1.4 has tested out so
>many different ways that it can be anything from a dog to a diamond :-)
>Some of the Modern Photography numbers are really off the wall, and I
don't
>know how to compare 1970s and 1984+ figures. I do some indoor work
>without
>flash, and it's very cloudy in Seattle 9 months of the year. Is the f/1.4
>OK for general photography, or would I be better off trying to get a f/1.8
>instead (the dealer has several, I haven't seen them yet).
I prefer the 1.4 respect to the 1.8s (there are 5 types, with two main
optical formulas). Imho again.
>
>* Up until now, I've been using an old Leica screw-mount IIIf with 35mm
>f/3.5 Summaron, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor, and 90mm f/4 Elmar. (No, they are
>NOT
>for sale). There are many inconveniences to this old system, and it's
just
>not worth adjusting the shutter every year any more. How will my Zuikos
>compare, optically, to my c. 1950 Leitz and Nikkor rangefinder lenses?
I think the Zuikos should be compared to the Summicrons... big smile.
>
>* What speed does the shutter operate in when the meter is in the "off"
>position (it appears to work)? This is distinct from when there are no
>batteries at all, and the camera won't work.
I have a 2n only, but I think the camera works in AUTO just the same. A
guess only.
>
>* The OM-2 body has the letters "MD" at the lower right section of the
body
>faceplate. What does this mean? Did the camera originally have a motor
>drive?
Motor Drive. Camera *can* be motor-driven.
Marco
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