Conrad Vogel wrote:
:I have an OM-1 md (and always will) with a QA-310 flash with bounce grip.
I was
:wondering if anyone had some recommendations for me to get more of a
"studio"
:like effect in my pictures by adding another flash to my setup, and how to
do
:it. The bounce grip takes nice pictures bounced off the ceiling or walls
(I had
:my son the artist paint me up some canvas backdrops in the back yard), but
I
:still have some shadows creeping around. I know that I won't be able to be
an
:instant professional with a new setup, but I'd like to get some better
results
:with the limitations of my OM-1. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as
most
:of the studios charge an arm and a leg for "cutie" pictures.
Limitations of the OM-1? TTL flash control isn't always better - it's just
more comfortable to use.
Anyway, to answer your question:
The first step towards better flash effects and the studio look is to
increase the distance of the flash to the camera. Mount the QA-310 on a
tripod; you can use the Bounce Grip (which has a tripod screw) or a separate
flash bounce head. Connect it with the OM-1 using a PC sync cable of 4 or 5
meter. When you place the tripod about 2 meters aside from the camera you
have better lighting and are freed from annoying shadows on the backdrops.
The next step is to soften the light. You don't neccesarily need umbrellas
(brollies) or soft boxes - the light already gets better when you attach a
diffuser of semi transparent paper to the flash head. Make sure the Normal
Auto sensor window (next to the label 'Olympus' on the front of the flash is
not covered, and you can use Normal Auto (computer flash) as usual (only
the maximum shooting distance is reduced).
A third step could be to add a secundary light source for fill-ins, to
reduce shadows in the face. You don't even need a second flash - a
reflection screen on the other side of subject is already very effective.
You can make it yourself out of white cardboard or perspex. Another simple
and cheap solution is buying one of these miniature stand-alone flashes with
built-in slave units (I have one that is labeled 'Vantage remote-flash').
The effect of these units can also be controlled by taping diffusers on
them. If you want more control than that, you'll need another computer
flash, and either a slave unit or two additional PC cords and a PC
multi-connector. The effect of a secondary computer flash can be reduced by
selecting a smaller aperture value on the flash than is set on the lens. Of
course you can also set everything to 'manual', but this takes a lot of
experimenting to get the best results.
Btw, I'm not really convinced that a multiple flash + backdrop studio
setting is the best environment for baby pictures. Babies, unlike babes,
hardly ever co-operate; they never do what they're told - they don't sit,
they don't pose the way you want them, just as if they don't listen. Hmm,
come to think of it, the difference with babes isn't that big after all :-).
How about some nice available light shots in the baby room with the winter
sun playing through the window, and a mother-assistent holding a small
reflection screen?
good luck,
Hans
< This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing List >
< For questions, mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >
< Web Page: http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
|