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Re: [OM] Any scuba divers on the list?

Subject: Re: [OM] Any scuba divers on the list?
From: Clyde Soles <csoles@xxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 21:18:01 -0600
A few more points and I'll shut up, promise!

>The case did come with an Ikelite flash case that had a
>mid-sized Vivitar flash in it, but it looks like it might hold a
>T-32, too.  Still, not a huge flash.  What sort of w-s or guide
>number would people suggest for general wide angle use?

It's a bit more complicated than just a question of power. Coverage angle
becomes very important. Typically for a 21mm land lens (same as an 18mm uw
lens), you'll want at least a 150 w/s flash (the Ike 200s are sweet) but
w/s is a terrible way to compare flashes. When you house your T-32 (roughly
50w/s -- Oly content), the coverage angle is reduced by the air/water
interface. It would be ok for a 50mm land (35 uw) lens and macro but not
wider angle (most of the time).

>I think it's safe to assume lousy visibility around here.  On a
>really clear day you can see 40-60 feet.  More than once I've
>found the bottom by running into it before I could see it.

This is a very important point which we'll get to in a bit.

>Luckily, there's a deep enough dropoff near Tacoma that I can
>hang the case off my anchor line and lower it to 200 feet for an
>hour to test it.

Just don't put a camera inside when you do the test! It's happened -- with
catastrophic results -- and the fool got pissed at the housing manufacturer.

>When I cobbled together a home-made case for a cheapo
>point-n-shoot several years ago, I solved the fogging and
>bouyancy problems at the same time, ballasting it with a
>stainless box of silica gel dessicant.  I'll have to see if
>there's room in the new case for something similar.

I've never had a problem with this and don't bother with dessicants (a
tampon is a good idea in case of the dreaded leak -- more likely at 10 ft
than 60 btw). Temps equalize pretty quickly when submerged. Avoid touching
the inside of your ports with anything if at all possible -- super easy to
scratch.

>I think to start with I'll stay at no-decompression depths while
>learning to use the system.  If nothing else that gives me more
>fumbling time per tank.

Ever gone in a darkroom and come out at 3 thinking it was 11? Same thing
happens when you're taking pics uw. I've known otherwise experienced divers
who sucked their tanks dry while composing.

>Glad to hear it's a workable combination.  I don't have a 1n (or
>a 4t), but once I'm confident I won't be flooding my gear with
>salt water I do have a spare 2n.

NEVER be confident about that! It may be worth checking your insurance
policy or looking into DEPP (?) to get coverage on floods. BTW, on major
trips pros often take at least a half dozen hyper-expensive housed cameras,
a dozen+ flashes, lots of spare cords, spare parts, etc..

>I figured I'd make my own brackets -- they're simple enough and
>oen of my other hobbies is brazing stainless kitchen fixtures,
>so that shouldn't be hard.  (Easier than making bicycle frames
>or tripod collars for lenses at any rate.)

As before, it's more complicated than you may think at first. You mentioned
murky water which presents it's own set of problems. There are two schools
of thought. Pair of powerful flashes spread very wide (full arm span or
more) or pair of powerful flashes very close to camera body and feathered
outwards. Anythng else give you massive backscatter. It also helps to have
a quick-release on the left strobe for hand held shots. Balance, ease of
operation with gloved hands, corrosion resistance, joint strength and
durability are all important concerns. Look at the Terry Ultalight arms and
you may decide a bike frame is easier...and cheaper. In short, you're
probably better off going with the Ikelite arms unless you have a lot of
free time on your hands. Hate to sound like an ad (just a satisfied
customer -- did I mention best customer service anywhere?) but I've seen
the cheaper and much more expensive alternatives.

Happy bubbles!

Clydeorama Photo Gallery
http://home.rmi.net/~csoles/index.htm

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