Chip asked an *important* follow-up question off-list which prompts this
correction to a previous posting:
>for a bright day to give it a test. One question, perhaps I'm not clear on
>EV settings:
>
>You wrote:
>
>>"The dial moves in 1/3 stop increments. If you are compensating for mottled
>>shadowing caused by small tree branches over an otherwise sunlit subject,
>>you probably want more fill (+2/3 to +1). If you want only to make eyes
>>sparkle and enhance contrast slightly on a deep overcast day, you probably
>>want less fill (+1-1/3 to +2)."
>
>Is less fill actually a "smaller" amount of EV ? I was under the impression
>that the more EV (positive numbers going from 1.0 to 2.0 EV) would increase
>the amount that the flash "helps" with light. Maybe I have this turn
>around in my mind. Help.
Thanks Chip. I'm glad you asked for clarification!! You are right. You
need to move the EV compensation ring in the MINUS direction. Don't know
what I was thinking when I wrote the first one (cixelsyd?). I am the one
who had it turned around. When looking through the viewfinder, rotate the
ring clockwise which is the same as increasing the film speed.
----------------------
For those who read the first set of *incorrect* instructions . . . here is
a *corrected* set and an apology for any confusion caused:
Here is how I do it with the same combo of OM-4 and T-20, T-32 *and* F-280
using TTL OTF mode:
1. Make sure the camera is in Auto mode with the ASA set for the film
speed you are using, and the EV compensation ring on the ASA dial is set to
ZERO.
2. Mount the flash to the camera but leave it *OFF*.
3. Aim at your subject, focus, and with the flash unit *OFF*, adjust the
aperture ring until you get a 1/60th shutter speed.
Note: This is the sync speed for the flash unit and you will also be
properly exposed without any flash for the scene's ambient lighting.
4. Turn the flash ON to TTL Auto Mode.
Note: This "locks" the camera at 1/60th so the shutter speed cannot change
and the overall scene will stay properly exposed for ambient lighting.
5. Turn the EV compensation ring (without lifting it) clockwise from -2/3
to -2 compensation depending on how much fill you want.
Note: The dial moves in 1/3 stop increments. If you are compensating for
mottled shadowing caused by small tree branches over an otherwise sunlit
subject, you probably want more fill (-2/3 to -1). If you want only to
make eyes sparkle and enhance contrast slightly on a deep overcast day, you
probably want less fill (-1-1/3 to -2). Experience in doing this will
develop a sense of how much fill *you* want. Everyone's preferences are
different. This "fools" the TTL OTF metering into thinking the film needs
less light from the flash.
6. Shoot the number of frames you wish of the subject. Repeat steps 3 - 5
if ambient lighting changes.
7. Remember to turn the flash OFF and reset the compensation dial to ZERO
when you are done with fill flash.
To reiterate what you have done. You are using the aperture ring to find a
proper non-flash exposure at 1/60th second for the overall scene. You are
then fooling the flash unit and TTL metering combination into thinking you
need less light. However, the camera will remain locked at 1/60th shutter
speed as soon as the flash has charged.
I recommend you try this with a victim, er subject , on some non-critical
photographs and experiment with different fill levels (compensation dial
settings) both in mottled shade with bright sunlight and under deep
overcast. Keep records of what you did for each frame and then look at the
results. You can then choose what settings please you most for your own
fill-flash work.
Fortunately the OM-2[n, sp] and OM-4[t] can use the TTL Auto mode on the
T-20, T-32 and T-45. This method should also work if you are using an
F-280 as its only "auto" mode is TTL Auto. There is a different way to do
this with a T-20 or T-32 in Normal Auto (using the sensor on the front of
the flash unit) but it is more complicated and more difficult to control
how much fill you get.
-- John
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