If your side to side exposure changes, this means the curtains are not
going across at the same speed. They should both move across in approx
10ms. You really absolutely need a calibrated shutter tester to do any
First, at 1/1000 you set curtain speeds to 10.9 . They should be within
.1ms of each other.
Then set 1/1000. Best is 1ms but .9 to 1.1 is okay. faster is better as
you will NEVER see a 2S/4 where 1/1000 gets faster with age.
I have never had to adjust manual speeds below 1/60, there may not be
apot for it.
Then adjust meter position. asa 100, BV12 is starting point. On auto
at BV12, lcd should line up with 125. There is only ONE adjustment for
LCD accuracy on auto.
Pot near the front, next to rewind shaft is for manual (spot) meter
position. Blinking lcd segment is considered ON.
Then adjust automatic. BV12, f5.6 asa 100 adjust as close to zero as
There is NO adjustment for program exposure.
You must have a shutter tester that is equipped with an otf exposure
probe to do the above.
Emil Pozar wrote:
> John Hermanson wrote:
> > Looking at the front of the camera, the right hand pot is for lcd meter
> > position, middle pot is for auto exposure, left hand pot is for 1/1000
> > adjustment (which alters all speeds from 1/125 through 1/1000.
> Thanks a lot! However, I am still having problems.. if you had done it
> before, what is a simplest sequence of adjustments: auto exposure - high
> speeds - low speeds or..?
> As is now there is a GREAT jump from 1/30 to 1/15 (both in A and M
> mode): 1/15 is much underexposing. More down speeds go better (less
> underexposure) but still not enough to match 1/60 or 1/30 that form my
> starting point.
> Upper speeds are somewhat longer and I doubt they might be improved.
> 1/1000 and even 1/500 are also non-linear (slides darker towards the
> Emil Pozar
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