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[OM] (Fwd) shooting artwork

Subject: [OM] (Fwd) shooting artwork
From: "Giles" <cnocbui@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 07:44:06 +0000
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
Date:          Tue, 1 Feb 2000 20:44:09 -0800 (PST)
From:          Joseph <joseph@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To:            olympus-digest <owner-olympus-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:       shooting artwork

===========================
acclaim) has been asked to submit slides of several pieces (1
painting, 1 tapestry, one mixed media) for anational juried show, and
has asked me to the pictures. Unfortunately, I only have 10 days to:

1) Film: I am inclined to shoot the art with Provia 100 and a
saturated film, either Velvia or E100VS. I also keep a supply of
E100SW on hand. 

3) Lighting: Since I can't simply order up an overcast day on
command, I'll probably have to make do with what I have: a Sunpack
433D and an old yellowed Vivitar 283. I haven't shot any color with
the 283 and would be worried about the yellowedlns on it. I don't
have any remote cords,controllers, etc.

4) Backdrop: I don't have one, although I do have a nice white wall
and clean beige carpeting available. I intend to compose with
aslittle backdrop showing as possible. 
===========================

You want to use tungsten lighting, preferably two of them, one on
each side aimed at an angle.  a flash will lead to reflective 
hot spots, and bounce flash won't fill evenly enough.

you didn't say what type of art.  If it is paintings, you need a
lens with a flat field to get critically sharp images across the
field.  lighting isn't too tricky here, just be sure you don't
get reflections that cause flare or hot stops, hence the angled
positioning.  a strobe flash will be difficult to control in that
regard, but you might be able to cut out a part of a plastic clorox 
bottle or similar and tape it over the flash as a diffuser.

For sculptures, 3-D modeling is the critical thing, and frankly,
this is something most amateurs will have trouble getting right,
myself included.  People with formal training in photography
spend alot of time learning studio lighting for 3-D subjects,
and it is tricky at best.  If you look at Weston's Bell Pepper
still lifes you'll see some quinessential mastery of 3-D modeling.
I don't think anybody uses strobe flashes like the sunpak or
vivitar you have for studio lighting.

You want a film with good color accuracy, so Velvia is out of the
question, and Provia probably is a poor choice as well.  If you use
tungsten lighting, Ektachrome 100T or 64T would be the best choice,
or consider using Astia with a tungsten->daylight conversion filter.

If the juried event is really important, you might consider hiring
a professional to do it, but if you do it yourself, I'd recommend
shooting some test rolls and making adjustments to lighting and
other parameters as necessary before doing the real thing.  Experiment
until you get it just right, then shoot the whole thing in that
exact setup.

Joseph



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