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Re: [OM] Pictures from a Cessna

Subject: Re: [OM] Pictures from a Cessna
From: "Gary Edwards" <garyetx@xxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 19:47:11 -0500
Cc: "Ronald Zoz" <rzoz@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
First off, Ron, I'll offer my credentials:
http://members.home.com/garyetx/flight.htm

Secondly, I agree with everything Gary Reese suggests.  The trick on
disconnecting the window stop is important, because it is very difficult to
shoot through the 3 inch gap normally available, and the condition of
acrylic glazing in light airplanes is uniformly awful..  Bring a long, thin
screwdriver and needle nosed pliers, and assure the owner that you can put
it back together. It isn't hard, just tedious.  The window will float up
against the bottom of the wing and stay there calmly.  The other option is
removing the door, but most owners balk.  Completly legal in Cessna singles,
by the way, with a logbook entry by an A&P.

Gary touched on the haze issue.  For that reason, consider high contrast
films, not necessarily - as suggested by others - high speed film. The haze
is the reason infrared films are often used for technical aerials.  High
shutter speeds are nice, but the ground isn't moving very fast, so they are
not absolutely essential.  Do be sure to use your body to isolate the camera
from the airframe vibration. It helps that modest focal lengths are usually
what you want to use. To minimize airframe vibration and slipstream buffet,
have the pilot fly relatively slowly (say 75-80 knots) at low power setting,
and using no more than 10-15 degrees of flaps.  And keep the camera inside,
out of the slipstream.

Gary also had a good point on fatigue.  Ten sites will be a lot for your
first time.

Finally, be aware that maneuvering at low atitude is a favorite technique
used by low-time pilots to kill themselves and their passengers.  There is
no need for any exciting piloting.  Be careful out there, and show us the
pictures!

Gary Edwards


----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Reese <pcacala@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] Pictures from a Cessna


> Ron Z writes:
>
> << Does anyone have any suggestions for taking pictures from a Cessna?
> Any tricks, tips, suggestions or warnings on exposure, shutter speed,
> film,  etc.?  I plan to take my OM2n and several lenses.  It is going
> to be a new adventure for me.  Maybe you can help me avoid some real
> basic common errors. >>
>
> 1. Get the pilot or plane owner to unhinge the passenger window
> retainer.  It is a bar-like thing that doesn't allow it to open enough
> for optimal shooting. You will find that the window pretty well stays
> open for you while shooting after this temporary modification.
>
> 2. Tape your lens to infinity.  If you use a zoom, pick a two touch so
> you can tape the focusing ring down.
>
> 3. Go with high shutter speeds (1/500th or more) at the sake of
> aperture. But do reference my lens tests to make sure you won't be
> shooting at an aperture that is too open for fine images. Fast primes,
> like a 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/2 are optimal for this, although
> zooms allow quicker shooting of fast changing scenery.
>
> 4. Use a Winder or Motor Drive. Things happen too fast to be thinking
> about manual film advance. Ideally have the Grip Strap secure on your
> wrist.  If not, have the neck strap around your neck. In the
> excitement/wind stream you might loose your grip. I've only lost maps .
> . .  Try and extend neck straps so the camera rests on your lap. Weight
> on your neck can easily lead to a near migrane headache from a flight. I
> had headaches after nearly every photo recon flight I took as a
> biologist. Some put me in bed for half a day afterwards. Seriously, for
> anyone doing this on a regular basis, Darvon and a prescription motion
> sickness patch are great preventive medicine.  But a turbulent day will
> do anyone in.
>
> 5. Underexpose 1/3 stop on light haze and 2/3rds on moderate haze. With
> heavy haze (like southeastern US summer days), you just aren't going to
> get very good shots unless it is close to sun-up or sun-down. Those are
> the ideal times to shoot.
>
> 6. Don't watch the ground when bank turning. Try closing your eyes and
> pretend you are floating. You'll need a barf bag if you don't - and may
> need one anyways from the stress of the photography.
>
> 7. Don't stick the camera out the window and into the air stream.
>
> 8. A Polarizing filter can be very effective, esp. when shooting water.
> But it cuts down the light tremendously. I'd have a second body with
> faster film handy. If you have a 50mm f/1.4 on it, you can shoot at
> f/2.8 with excellent results. But use it sparingly since fidgeting with
> the polarizing ring is time wasted viewing a good shot.
>
> 9. Reflected sunlight (like off water) will underexpose your shots. The
> Sunny 16 rule applies to oblique aerial photography the same as it does
> to ground photography.
>
> 10. Shoot between 500 and 1,000 ft. above ground level elevation.
> Explore getting the horizon in shots to give perspective. Explore the
> change in light on a scene by circling a subject. Unless it is high
> noon, one angle will look best. Be prepared for it on the second go
> around.
>
> 11. Use 36 exposure loads. Take extra camera bodies with film loaded,
> since it will be at the end of a roll when that great shot appears!
>
> 12. Keep the wing strut and bottom of the wing out of the picture. A few
> simple hand signals will help the pilot know what you want him/her to
> do, because there will be times you need a little plane adjustment to
> get a shot. It is too loud to shout in the cabin, esp. with the window
> open. Even headset verbal communications can be confusing.
>
> The sickness issues are the downside to this. If you do the shooting and
> the navigation (like to premapped sites), it is EXHAUSTING work. A great
> pilot is one that can take your map and get you to site A, B, C, etc.
> I'd fly 35-70 sites per 3-5 hour flight.  But that is probably beyond
> what you plan.  Enjoy!
>
> Gary Reese
> Las Vegas, NV
>
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>


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