Chip Stratton wrote
> If anyone has a copy of the instructions they can send me (snail mail or
> scanned and emailed) I would be pretty thrilled.
There are some in the E-SIF, but IMO they're not worth reading.
> Short of that, I do have some questions. What is the proper sequence of
> focusing, metering, and shifting with this lens?
As Brian Huber said, the instructions say to meter, then shift, but I
agree with John Lind that they are *wrong*, at least with the OM-2SP
and OM-4 bodies, because the composition changes.
After the last time this question came up on the list, I've taken
notice of what I am doing. I meter, then shift, or else I leave
the camera set to a known exposure and don't alter it. All my
exposures are perfect, using Elitechrome 100 and the Kodachromes.
BTW, I often handhold.
What I believe is going on technically is this: in a conventional
camera with the meter behind the prism, the designer has to make
some assumptions about the location and size of the exit pupil. These
assumptions fail with a shifted shift lens (and also sometimes with
extension tubes and teleconverters). With the OM-3, OM-4 and OM-2SP
the sensor is optically in the same place as the film, no matter what
the lens is doing. This also applies to off-the-film auto, that is "auto"
on all the single-digit OM's which have it. If this theory is correct,
you can meter after shifting with those cameras in those modes, and in
particular with any of the OM-2SP, OM-4[Ti] and OM-3[Ti], but you will
get into trouble with the OM-1 and with the OM-2 in manual mode. I use
only the OM-2SP and OM-4 with this lens.
The reason the prism darkens is that the viewfinder is not exactly
in the same optical location as the film. My vignetting test
(clear blue sky) shows no falloff on the developed slide with the lens
at maximum shift once stopped down to f/5.6 or smaller, even though
there is some darkening in the viewfinder.
Shift lenses are a pain in the neck with some systems, for example
Canon EOS. According a paragraph in the EOS FAQ contributed by Canon
themselves, any attachment which alters the exit pupil - they
mention extension tubes particularly - cannot be used with
any body other than the EOS-1 (this predates the Extremely
Overly Sophisticated 3) , and even then the spot meter doesn't
work. The software in the lens or tube talks to the EOS-1 and
negotiates exposure compensation. I much prefer the elegant
OM solution to this vile hack!
It may be that no AF camera handles shift lenses well. As the
AF sensor *must* be at a point optically equivalent to the film,
the exposure sensor *cannot* be (as yet, they are two separate
sensors).
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