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Re: Re: [OM] 50/2 macro vs. 90/2 macro

Subject: Re: Re: [OM] 50/2 macro vs. 90/2 macro
From: "Tom A. Trottier" <TomATrottier@xxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2001 19:06:50 -0500
On 7 Jan 2001, at 9:50, sayeth Gary Reese 

> Hi Hans:
> 
> << I would think the rule of focal length and lowest shutter speed for
> hand holding does not apply for macro lenses when their magnification is
> equal. Iow when both lenses are set at 1:2 the shorter focal length of
> the 50mm lens no longer gives you any advantage in shutter speed
> tolerance. >>

Why not? The angle covered is still in proportion to the focal 
length. But at macro distances, the angle reduces significantly. At 
1:1 it is half the angle ar infinity. So the shutter speed 
requirement goes up proportionately.
> 
> Perhaps you are right here - I never thought of it. But, the background
> bokeh is much futher away, thus a different subject magnification, ah?
> Camera movement will kill nice bokeh if it is combined with streaking
> from camera movement. How odd to be speaking of "blurry bokeh" - but
> it's real and something I was always aware of in nature photography.
> Even before I knew what to name it.
> 
> With either lens, the X-sync speed of 1/60th makes it more difficult
> than it should be in eliminating ghost images in flash pictures. Outdoor
> flash shots, for example of flowers, are barely stronger than the
> ambient light. In open habitats, I always had to use a slowish film, an
> ND filter or diffuser on the T32 and an aperture between f/11 and f/22
> to do my synchro sunlight technique of having the flash 1 to 2 stops
> stronger than the ambient light. Shoot something in open shade and it
> required 1/30th sync speed to keep the background from going black. I
> always felt more comfortable with a 50mm macro lens in these situations.

Or keep that grey card handy as a background...
> 
> Why use flash, some might ask? You can control modeling, get some degree
> of arresting subject movement, increase subject contrast and apparent
> sharpness and highlight subjects against their background. The trick
> isn't to overpower the subject with flash illumination. Let the ambient
> light fill in the shadows.

And/or use a reflector. More fiddliness.

Tom
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