A technique that works well for many applications is to set the
lightboxes/flashes to under-expose and fire them from slaves actuated by a
TTL auto flash hooked to the OM2N. The auto flash will provide enough trim
light to reach the correct exposure. It will take some testing to get the
light balance where you want it. Either the T20 or the T32 could be used
that way. The Vivitar SL-2 is a good slave actuator but I don't know if it
is still available. There are also AC powered slave flashes that are not too
expensive. Some have modeling lights and some don't. If you are repeating
the same basic setup most of the time, modeling lights may not be too
important. The high end professional products like this are very expensive
but less expensive units can be pruchased from places like Porters. I have
two Vivitar 285 flashes that I no longer need if you would be interested in
them.
/jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Kelton Rhoads
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 1:54 PM
> To: Olympus List
> Subject: [OM] Vivitar 283 with Olympus Studio [going OT]
>
>
> Hi, OMers -- I'm building an all-OM powered home table-top studio (well,
> a mostly OM-powered studio) around a trusty OM2n and a 50mm f/3.5. The
> subject of my photography is, of all things, girl's dolls! (Now before
> you start thinking that this psychologist needs extended therapy, I
> should tell you that my wife manufactures dolls, and it has fallen to me
> to produce the photos that appear on the packaging and in the
> promotions.) However, I'm thinking about fitting my 2 light boxes with
> two Vivitar 283 strobes (because they're powerful and cheap and have the
> VP units that let you dial in the power you want manually for use with a
> flash meter--although I'm accepting advice from those who think I should
> be using OM flashes, you'll just need to tell me why they're better for
> this application. In other words, you'll need to help me justify the
> additional expense to my boss . . . er, I mean, my wife). I'm looking at
> purchasing a used 283 at a local store, but with fresh batteries and from
> a cold start, it takes 9 seconds to light the orange flash ready light
> (and 14 seconds to get to the "flash ready beep.") My existing 273 gets
> to the orange flash ready light in only 7 seconds (no flash ready beep on
> the 273). Is this 283 failing? Do you know what normal warm up times are
> for the 283? (If this is too OT, email me at krho@xxxxxxxxxxxxx, but I'll
> be watching the list, too. I'd also love a recommendation for a slave
> trigger for the 283, so that I can trigger both flashes simultaneously,
> even though both are in separate light boxes.) Thanks in advance, Kelton
>
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