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Re: [OM] T-32 & T-20 questions

Subject: Re: [OM] T-32 & T-20 questions
From: Gregg Iverson <giverson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 00:30:19 -0500
Jim wrote:
Okay.  If I want to make a vertical portrait indoor, using a T-32, bounced
off the ceiling, on an OM-PC, how do I proceed?  (I need to get the T-32 off
the shoe so I can turn the camera and point the flash head up, while still
retaining the TTL coupling.)  Since, the PC will do TTL flash, what are the
cord/grip options?  Is there a web site that explains what pieces work for
TTL flash?  I want to know everything about all of my hardware options.
The T 32 will need to be taken off camera to tilt it left or right in regards to the camera. You can use a bounce grip 2 or a cord to move it off camera. If you use the BG2 you can hold all the equipment while taking the photo (not easy to accomplish) or you can put your camera on a tripod and hold the flash pointed in the direction you desire. Cords come in several options from about .1 m to 5 m in length . Check out http://members.nbci.com/veluwen/om-sif/flashphotogroup/ttl_auto_cords_t.htm for this specific information on extension cords, but be sure to bookmark the home page (http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/veluwen/om-sif/) for further reference.

Also, for the OM-2, is there a long, non-coiled cord available that screws
into the prism's flash socket?  (I'm trying to avoid the OM-2's PC socket.)
Yes, it's called the TTL auto shoe cord and is listed on the above page. There is also a special piece that attaches to the flash mount that allows the regular cords to be used.

Now a question about lighting.
I'm trying to get nice even light to capture architectural photos of the inside of my brother's very cool house before he sells. The available window light is way too contrasty, even using 100 speed Kodak color neg film. I have a small wink light, and T-20 and a T-32. I suspect that a flash meter is necessary for best results. Is it even worth trying to scatter the strobes around the room, buy slaves and stands and fire all these non-pro flashes? I'm sure the pros use medium format cameras, flash meters, tons of experience, and test exposures on Polaroid backs. None of these tools are available / affordable to me. Thoughts?
My dad used to light a house with flood lamps and shoot Kodachrome 25 with good success. He avoided the daylight problems by shooting at night. By using photofloods, he was able to see exactly what would be on the film ahead of time. He also didn't need a flash meter that way. He would hide a bare bulb behind furniture to light areas of the room without the light being visible, and would also replace the lights in lamps to give a natural look. It took some effort and time but gave him some nice shots.

Won't I get overlapping flash patterns, resulting in hot spots?  Is it worth
pursuing?

Yes and yes.

Gregg


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