When my composition has a lot of sky, I tilt the camera down and note the
shutter speed the needle is pointing to on auto. I re-compose the picture
and turn the compensation dial until the needle lines up with the previously
read shutter speeds.
John Hermanson
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernd Moeller" <dsl33687a@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 12:07 PM
Subject: Sv: Sv: Sv: Sv: [OM] OM-2n at EI 1600??
Hi,
> > I use to take a full frame metering with my OM 2 turning the frame
> > away from any strong light sources, in particular the faces of
> > spotlights. Then I turn the camera on maual mode and transfer the
> > value previously seen in auto mode to the manual exposure setting.
> > That's a little complicated, but it works.
>
> Never tried that one. Mind you, when I started in this game my usual
> venue (Students' Union building, Warwick University) had quite a good
> light set up which was usually operated very, erm, dynamically so there
> wouldn't usually have been enough time. Sticking to manual and guessing
> a compensation factor seemed to work best.
Yes. Unless the light is so dynamical that it changes more than 4 aperture
steps.
>
> > Sometimes i seek to get a
> > musicians' head between the light souce and the camera and just
> > underexpose one aperture. Thereby I get a kind of corona effect, with
> > the face of the musician still properly exposed.
>
> Something like this?
> http://www.chm.bris.ac.uk/~cpian/music/pics/is22.jpg
Yes - good shot. Or this: http://vendelbogade5.homepage.dk/image8.htm
> This was much easier on account of it being late afternoon at an outdoor
> festival, mind you.
Well, but sometimes the stage light is so strong compared to the ambient,
that light passing onto the stage from outside does not have a chance.
Bernd
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