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Re: [OM] Panoramas

Subject: Re: [OM] Panoramas
From: "John A. Lind" <jlind@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:26:06 +0000
Oben,
For stitched panoramic basics, see this site:
  http://www.panoguide.com/

IMO PhotoShop can be used, but some of the dedicated pano stitching software is better for it. See the reviews of various software on the site.

Some tips:
1. Most use very short focal length lenses for this with the camera mounted vertically. 2. Axis of rotation should be through the rear lens node, and it's _not_ where the tripod screw is located, but usually slightly forward of that. Most of us use a QR sliding plate on top of the tripod or existing tripod head to move the rotation axis to the rear lens node. Field methods for finding the rear lens node of a specific lens are explained on the site (doesn't require a lens bench). 3. Having a means to ensure the camera is dead level throughout its rotation is very important. My tripod head has built-in leveling bubbles; you can also get accessory ones if yours does not. 4. Unlike the sweetness of dawn to early morning and late afternoon to dusk for most outdoor photography, a 360 pano done during those times is almost certain to have one or two shots directly into the sun (with attendant aperture flare at the least). 360 panos are often better done during late morning or early afternoon with the sun still reasonably high. If you do manage to keep the sun out of all the frames, pay close attention to shading the lens in the sun direction and always use a lens hood (unless you're using a fisheye)! 5. Most will set a manual exposure. AE is very risky when shooting into the sun, even if it's outside the frame.

Hope this helps,
-- John

At 04:06 6/20/01, Oben Candemir asked:

Could someone explain how best to shoot a multiple shot panorama and stitch them together for the most seamless effect. I know the shift lens technique but am really asking how to get large multi-shot panoramas using a single prime lens. Which focal length to use, ideal location to shoot from... how far one must move laterally for sequential shots etc. I know exposure value due to changed lighting, cloud coverage and position, are always a confounders but assume that lighting and all else are constant.

If anyone has nice and simple information on how to achieve this then I would love to know.

Thanks in advance.

Oben


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