My scanner is temporarily in storage (sold house, living w/family until new
place is done), or I'd send a copy of the parts.
On to cases -- by far, the vast majority of "battery drain" complaints on the
PC/40 are due to a sticky electromagnet -- trust me, they are. It's an easy
fix -- pull of the front edge of the mask below the mirror and clean the
surfaces between the magnet and armature _carefully_. Then replace the plate
w/contact cement. In normal circumstances, good silver oxide batteries (use no
substitutes!) _will_die_ in 6-12 months. If a dedicated flash is used, battery
life will decline substantially. Lithium or alkaline batteries will die in a
few weeks. Period, end of story.
(BTW, the ASA knob of the OM-2/2n doesn't really "come off" -- it's bezel is
staked onto the top cover, and most of the parts are attached from underneath.
Yes, you can pull off a plate or two, but that's about it....)
It's alot easier to get to the power wire through the battery chamber, or under
the bottom cover. And there's hardly any room under the top to mount a jack or
anything, but...
if you _insist_ on taking off the top...
1. remove the rubber pad on top of the wind lever and the screw underneath --
everything else lifts off.
2. Unscrew the screw from the center of the rewind knob (_never_ remove the
screw from the knob of a 1/1n/2/2n) -- lift off the knob.
3. Unscrew the plate underneath the rewind knob -- below it is the mode
selector knob, and under it is a detent ball (2mm), holder, and spring (don't
loose the holder!).
4. _carefully_ pry off the plate over the ASA knob (slip the sharp point of an
X-acto-type knive under the corner by the window and work it up -- work slowly
and try not to crease it -- you can flatten it out later). Underneath is a
small screw over a little plate, covering a conical spring (small turns to the
top), that rests in a plastic cup that's keyed to the knob. Once this screw is
removed, the knob will lift off.
Thereafter, you've got 6 screws that keep the top on. Underneath are three
loose parts -- the spring that pushes down on the back latch, the rewind button
that's keyed to the top cover, and the post that the rewind button rests on.
And see -- there's no room to spare....
There's some wires attaching the top cover's circuit to the main circuit -- if
you unsolder them, be sure to draw a precise diagram showing where the wires
come from, as well as as many of the others that you can -- you never know when
a wire will break off while you're working!
The wire from the battery is black -- I'll let you find it!
Jarno Verhoeven wrote:
> Actually, I am trying to take the OM-40 apart. Unscrewed some screws but it
> seems that the ISO dial won't come off like it does in a OM-2 body, so I am
> looking for an exploded view of the camera.
> Furthermore, the circuit drains the batteries rather quickly, so I am also
> looking for a place to mount a connector. I can then use the camera with an
> external batterypack (wich is to be designed).
>
> In short, exploded view(s) would be very helpful.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jarno Verhoeven
> The Netherlands
>
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