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Re: [OM] Push & pull (was B/W film specs)

Subject: Re: [OM] Push & pull (was B/W film specs)
From: hogant@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:17:42 -0400
Cc: Henrik Dahl <hdahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> When pushing/pulling a film and leaving it to be developed, do you always 
> tell the shop that you've pushed/pulled? Or is there a point 
in letting them develop "as if"? I'm talking small measures here, 
like 1/3 - 1 stop up or down, and mainly B/W. I'm asking because 
someone (sorry, lost the post) adviced to shoot 125 ASA Ilford FP4 on 
100 ASA.

Thanks
Henrik Dahl


>On film. The Ilford film mentioned is the one I have mentioned before, where
>I have gotten a substantial speed gain in dip-and-dunk Xtol. I've just
>finished the last of my bargain FP4+, and am going back to my old favorite,
>Plus-X, but I was getting about 160 to 200 ASA routinely. since another
>member recommends ASA 100, this tells me either he likes really thick
>negatives, or this film is quite flexible in development.

Hi - The way I would interpret that particular advice is to overexpose
the black and white negative film Ilford FP 5 by one third stop or
 (1/3 EV) and to develop the film "normal" or as if it were ISO 100.

I use a lot of Tech Pan Film which I develop normal (ISO 32) but I expose at 
ISO 25 this is the same thing - 1/3 EV or 1/3 stop overexposure.  Tech Pan film 
is extremely versatile and each development/exposure (ISO) schedule has a 
different contrast curve.

The film's exposure latitude can easily accommodate the slight change
in contrast.

You can also Push or Pull development times to accomplish the same thing.  With 
some films you can push them to the reversal point and
make positives.  ISO 80 was the value commonly used with the old Pan 32
film.

With Positve films like Kodachrome 64 many photographers dial in ISO 80
into their camera to get a 1/3 EV pull which results in a little more
color saturation, etc.

Some developers will cut a snip off the front or the end of a roll and
develop it normally and then judge how much it needs to be pushed or 
pulled - there is usually a significant extra charge for this service.

My gray whale slides; for example, I was using Ektachrome 64 in my
 OM2S with a Zuiko 200 mm - I was sure the slides would be underexposed
so I sent it to A&I in Hollywood, CA and asked for them to "snip, judge, and 
run".  The slides came back perfectly developed because they
chose to push the development by 2/3 stop (EV) from a "snip off the tail"  It 
cost a little more but it was worth it because for me getting 
shots like that was a dream come true. 
http://flzhgn.home.mindspring.com/whalep1.htm

-- Hank









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