Okay, this is going to be long, and maybe contain stupid questons, so
you may want to skip it if short on patience :-)
I recently had a Zuiko 50/1.8 SN come with (an OM1) ebay purchase, which
had spidery fungus. I was about to throw it out, but decided to play
with it first to see if it could be salvaged for a loupe perhaps.
Anyways, using a rubber band for a grip I was able to get out 3 lens
elements from the front. I cleaned up everything with ascetic acid
(white vinegar), then alcohol, then windex, and reassembled. Luckily the
fungus was on the surfaces I could get at. I also took off some metal
parts from the back also, and swabbed everything with vinegar. I've shot
some with the lens since, and can't see any difference on 4x5 prints
from my other 1.8 "made in Japan' variety. I presently have the thing
quarantined from my other lenses and am giving it regular sun/UV baths.
What I'd like to try with it is making a pin hole lens. A few years
ago, when my son was into model railroading, we visited with a fellow
from Saint John who made a pin hole lens from a C*n*n lens. He shoots
model railroad scenics with it, and has had some photo stories published
in model railroad magazines, plus a good number of front cover photos. I
remember he briefly explained to me taking the lens apart and adding a
permament small aperture, which gave him the extreme DOF needed for
shooting model railroad scenics.
I am wondering if any one has tried making one of these. If so, I could
use some advice. I am thinking of perhaps making a small round tin plate
(maybe from the top of a tin can?), which I can then drill a very small
hole in the center of, and blacken it all with a felt tip marker. Then
I'd take the lens apart again and and put this in for a new fixed
aperture, as close to the other aperture blades as I can get it.
Some questions:
1. Any chance this will work?
2. Should I permanently set the other blades at f/16 and permanently
hold down the DOF button to prevent possible camera damage? I know
things have to move in the lens when the camera is fired, and this new
aperture might jam the other ones??
3. Would I also need to use close up diopters with a normal 50/1.8 to do
this kind of close up photography, or could I use my vivitar macro focus
2x?
4. How would metering work? I have a 2s coming, would it do it
automatically up to a couple minutes like I hear say the 2n does?
5. How would focusing work with the darkness you'd get at extreme small
apertures? Could I focus with another 50/1.8, then switch lens and set
to the same distance, or would this be too inaccurate?
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