Hi John,
Thanx for the well thought out recommendations to my <plight><g>
Yes, I've never done the strobe thing before, but I have both the time
(~2 hours before it starts) and the space (inviolate, right next to the
Master's table) to have a half decent shot at getting a good setup
going (plus I'm going to use pc cords for the mains, and the only
optical will be a cheesy flash banging the backdrop - something
even the "pro" never did [the backdrop light I mean])
No floods...and I should have been clearer on the "podium"...what it
is is several wooden boxes painted white of differing heights that the
medal winners stand on long enough for me to shoot them, and then
shoo them off for the next set of winners...floods would have worked,
but renting strobes, power supply, cords, stands and umbrellas is
only running $50, so that's the way I'll go I think...using the OM-1
since
I'll meter the setup (using the faces of all 4 and then taking the
average
of that - the uniforms are black, so a regular average might be
over-exposed)
Once I get the face average, every thing is set and I'll just bang those
out
{I think <g>) These shots are the ones that will get enlarged to 8X10,
hence
me wanting the 160nc for them. (and them only - the shots that the "pro"
did
using the same setup look 'grainy' to me at 8X10 - and I shoot Tri-X or
HP-5
for the most part!)
The PJ stuff with the OM-4, -32 and BG2 (with wrist-strap!!) for the most
part
will be within 30 feet (or a lot less!) and someone else (not on the
list, but
a wedding photog I know from work) swore by using softboxes on his
"potato
masher", and with the 400nc feeding the -4, I figured the -32 would have
enuf
power to deal with it...maybe I'm wrong (wouldn't be the 500th time <g>)
BTW, I do have all the cords to mount it on the right! <G> so will do so
- thanx!
Special thanx for the tip on putting a neck strap on that set-up, I
usually just
use the hand strap, but with bodies flying through the air, who knows?
I'd rather use the 100 than the 90, the 90 is a macro (i.e. a beast
should have
mentioned that in the first post also) if you think that would be the one
to use
for the "action" shots, but (another neglection of mine) I was thinking
of using
the 75-150/f4 for the action stuff (and getting nailed on the focus
problems)
You're probably right about just using a prime for these shots too...now
I'll
have to move around even more <sigh>
Maybe I'll just use the zoom for the graduates recieving their degrees,
and
then switch to the 35 (or maybe the 50) for the group shot -- that one I
can
move around wherever I want, and I'll have up to 60 people stacked in
three rows(I don't know how many grads we have this year - they come from
all over the midwest and texas) You're right about the 24 being a tricky
lens
to keep things looking right in...but I used a 35 for a few years as my
only
lens when I got back into OM, and almost see it as a "normal" lens.
Many, many thanks for the time you took to answer this...
<You brought two additional points about using PC cords with the OM's:
<(a) If you use the OM-1 PC socket, ensure without any doubt by double,
<triple, and quadruple checking the switch around it that it's in the "X"
<sync position!!!!
It always is, but I'll check it for sure!!! Thanx
<(b) With the OM-4 and OM-2S I use a PC cord adapter in the hot shoe if
I'm
<constantly plugging a monolight cord in and pulling it out again. It
has a
<contact on the bottom and PC socket on the side; they're about $10-$15
at a
<large camera store. Saves wear and tear on the camera PC socket, and if
<gets damaged, it gets replaced versus a camera repair that's required to
<fix a buit-in PC socket.
Ooh, Ooh, I think I have one of those somewhere...great point!
Bill >; P
(Owner of only "pedestrian" Zuiks, no stellars and can still take pix)
"Life unfolds on a great sheet called Time (film)*,
and once finished (developed)* is gone(here)* forever..."
*provided ya have a good archival system in place.
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