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RE: [OM] Velvia 100!

Subject: RE: [OM] Velvia 100!
From: jowilcox <jowilcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 16:01:19 -0500
>===== Original Message From AG Schnozz <agschnozz@xxxxxxxxx> =====
>For midtone and highlight subjects, the ISO 50 rating is dead-on
>and matches most any other film.  However, it's the shadows that
>go dark on you.  It is preferable to underrate Velvia 1/3 of a
>stop (at least) if shadow detail is what you are trying to
>achieve.  But for that matter, Velvia isn't the proper film if
>you like your shadow details.
>
>In B&W printing you expose for the highlights and contrast
>control for the shadows.  In color slide films, you expose for
>the midtones (and highlights) and select different films for the
>shadows.  Probably the widest latitude slide film I've ever used
>has been RSX-50.  Shadow detail is awesome.  The grain structure
>is a bit harsh, though.

Ken,
I get oodles of shadow detail from Velvia at ASA 50, courtesy of Polaroid 
SS4000.  I often have to tweak curves in the Silverfast scan dialogue and then 
even post-scan in Photoshop to get a hard enough print. What I can't abide is 
blown highlights, so I always shoot for highlights.

The guideline about exposing for shadows in BW (and even color neg) has not 
been helpful to me.  I think it works better for LF and even MF shooters who 
can alter processing times to place highlights where they want them through 
development.  St. Ansel's recommendation for 35mm shooters was generally to 
depend upon N-1 development, maybe a little over-exposure, and paper grades to 
get the right amount of contrast in 35mm BW prints. I wonder if he shot enough 
35mm to try his own advice.  I didn't care much for the results when I have 
done it (with no disrespect intended to Adams).

Although negative film can take a lot more over-exposure than slide film, 
over-exposed negative film seems to produce some artifacts when scanned.  Not 
as muddy and grainy as underexposed film, but not as clean as film that's 
right on.

So basically I always shoot for the highlights, no matter what kind of film is 
involved.  I just think about exposure in exactly the same way regardless of 
film type.  Am I alone?

Joel W.


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