> Also, proper exposure, in situations like this is sort of an imprecise
> science. It's not like a 30 sec. exposure will be perfect, but 28
> seconds or 33 seconds will be awful. Such tiny fractions of a stop
> difference are often meaningless here.
Yes, I realise that this sort of small change isn't a problem, but the
curves of how long I need -vs- how long the camera will give tend to be
pretty steep -- that's why I picked 15 seconds as the example, because that
wants almost a minute of exposure to come out properly.
> > Presumably the camera doesn't have built-in reciprocity failure
> > compensation..
>
> That'd be difficult, as different films have different reciprocity
> failure characteristics.
Yeah, that's why you'd want some sort of horrendously complex custom
function thing on your wonderbrick to make this work out. ick. [1]
I guess the thing to do is just add one/two stops depending on roughly how
dark it feels, bracket, and go from there. I'm still trying to get my eyes
'calibrated' for how dark the world is, though..
-- dan
[1] Scary things I saw at the garage sale on the weekend; "program cards"
for Nik*n/Can*n/something or other you plug in to the camera to tell it
what's going on. There was a "backlight" card, for heaven's sake.. what the?
now _that_ seems like making life more complex than it needs to be..
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