On Wed, 18 Sep 2002 11:33:50 -0700
Bill Stanke <bstanke@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Mr. Barber:
>
> Clint (as usual) has politely answered the questions you
> asked"straight", without editorializing on whether or not
> the basic endeavor is a good idea.
Clint and John both deserve much credit for their conduct
on the list. It cannot be said enough: thanks guys :)
>
> Seems to me that by the time you order the tools, buy the
> tools, and pay the postage on the tools that you should
> have more than the cost of sending the lens to a pro.
>
> Not to mention the 20 years of experience that is NOT
> included with your tool order.
>
The above depends. Clearly, the experience is not something
you can ever buy, and tools can be expensive too. Clints
posting has skillfully illustrated that with 20 years of
experience, all you really need to fix a camera is a
tweezer, a flat tire and a nose :)
However I estimate that, for me, insured shipping by some
trusted carrier to either John or Clint would amount to,
roughly, the same as buying the tools for the most common
fixes would. Yes, I live in Europe...no, I have not yet
found a good repair-shop for the OMs around here.
I've bought some tools, I've fixed a few things myself -
and have had much good advice from John and Clint on the
list on how to go about things. It's gratifying and it is
great fun - setting a price-tag on "fun" is really hard.
That said, there are things I would not attempt to fix
myself. Either because they might be hard (I would not,
e.g., try to open a zoom lens) or because it is equipment I
rely on to operate. That goes to the pro's, despite the
inconvenience and costs of shipping.
But the fun-part...I got around an old, beautiful, but
non-functioning mechanical P*ntax a while ago for free. For
the heck of it, I took it into pieces, cleaned and replaced
some parts and put it back together. It works, kinda...I am
not using it, but I had fun taking it to pieces and putting
it back together :) I am even proud that I managed to
remanufacture some broken piece with only a dremel and some
scrap metal...All fun - and something that I would hardly
consider worth sending off to be repaired anyways.
> I've found that my car, lawnmower, and camera gear are
> all happier if I don't work on them myself.
>
I ain't got a car, I ain't got a lawn...so all my tinkering
has to go on the cameras :)
> Of course as I write this I'm contemplating adding DOS to
> my Windows NT machine, so I can dual boot into eith DOS
> or NT. Why, it's a simple sixteen step procedure...
>
Well, I am not smart enough to use Windows. Seeing how my
friends and colleagues have to do all sort of interresting
things, and even - them being smart people and all -
remaining baffled at times, has scared me off. Stupid
people like me need a simpler and more user-friendly
system, such as an Unix :)
> My $.02. YMMV.
>
Everyone to his own. In any case, it is nice to have guys
like Clint and John around - for advice and for fixing
those things that require 20 years of experience, a flat
tire and a nose...:)
Best
--thomas
> Bill Stanke
>
> clintonr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> > NSURIT@xxxxxxx wrote:
> >
> > > I need some opinions from the tool jockeys in the
> > > group about choices of spanner wrenches from
> > > Micro-tools. My immediate need is to take the front
> > > element out of a 135 mm f2.8 Zuiko for cleaning and
> > > the same process on the rear element of a Vivitar 2X
> > > macro focusing teleconverter.
> >
> > Probably 600f the time, I just use the rather heavy
> > tweezers I got from Olympus 20+ years ago. Maybe 30%,
> > I use the spanners similar to Micro-Tool's #T-132 that
> > I got at school 30+/- years ago. After that, it's a
> > mix of special tools from Olympus made for specific
> > lenses and black rubber stoppers I bought from the
> > local hardware store. Once in a while I stretch some
> > old inner-tube rubber over the end of any handy round
> > object (like a spray can or whatever) to turn a lens
> > ring!
> >
> > So my suggestion is to spring for the #132 spanner and
> > a couple of tips. It will be rare that you'll need the
> > "7-B" or "7-C" tips. More likely, you may have to take
> > the regular tips to a grinder to make them narrower or
> > thinner to fit into the notches, so I'd get one set of
> > "D" &"E" tips, and two "A"s.
> >
> > > 2) Will I need a vice or pliers or something to hold
> > > most lenses with
> > > while removing the ring and element?
> >
> > You can usually get by with just a rear lens cap and a
> > soft rubber or vinyl mat to work on. Sometimes it's
> > easier to hold the lens on the seat between your legs
> > -- but don't slip! Try not to use a camera body to
> > hold a lens while you unscrew things -- the stop screw
> > in the mount can break off!
> >
> > > 3) Are there any special treatments or cleaning
> > > agents for the mold?
> >
> > My sensi said at Olympus, they were trained to just rub
> > a fingertip along the side of their nose and get it
> > greasy, then rub-rub-rub the surface of the damaged
> > element until there was no sign of the fungus -- sort
> > of like paste-wax on a car. Then clean with acetone to
> > remove the greasy oils.
> >
> > < This message was delivered via the Olympus Mailing
> > List >< For questions,
> > mailto:owner-olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >< Web Page:
> > http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright/olympuslist.html >
>
>
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>
--
-------------------------------------------
Thomas Heide Clausen
Civilingeniør i Datateknik (cand.polyt)
M.Sc in Computer Engineering
E-Mail: T.Clausen@xxxxxxxxxxxx
WWW: http://www.cs.auc.dk/~voop
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