Richard supplies a year's worth of topics for the list...
on 4/28/03 12:16 PM, Richard Smith at rsmith@xxxxxxxx wrote:
> I have used and appreciated Olympus cameras for over 20 years, but have lots
> of holes in my technical understanding of photography. That is one of the
> reasons I signed up for this mailing list yesterday. We have three OM
> series cameras in the family. My daughter has an OM1, which she uses in her
> university photography classes, my wife and I share an OM2, and we have a
> ?new? OM2n that I am getting ready to mail to Camtech for an overhaul. We
> also have a 135mm/2.8, a 65-200mm/4, and assorted other Zuiko lenses and
> accessories. I have several interesting (to me) questions that have
> remained unresolved over the years, so I?ll post them all and see what
> happens. Thanks in advance for any information anyone might offer.
> 1. When might one want to lock up the mirror on an OM1, OM2, and OM2n? And
> how is this done?
Mirror lockup might help reduce vibration, aiding sharpness particularly at
long shutter speeds. However I think only the OM-1 (and OM-1n) have mirror
lockup.
> 2. I see ads for lenses that claim ?absolutely no oil on the blades,? or
> ?the diaphragm is oil free.? What is the nature and cause of this problem
> that many Ebay sellers (especially) say they don?t have?
Oil on aperture blades comes from lubricants inside the lens migrating to
the aperture leafs. Since the leafs have to slide over each other when
opening and stopping down, and oil makes them sticky (due to surface tension
mostly) this slows down the lens aperture movement, resulting in exposure
errors and/or a dark viewfinder after exposure.
> 3. I know ?it depends,? but should I buy a T32 or a T20?
It depends... The T-20 is smaller, but of course lower light output. Lighter
weight, so if you install it on the flash shoe there is less likelihood of
busting the shoe. T-32 puts out more light, and has a swivel head for bounce
flash (handy). Also, T-32 allows use off-camera with the T-cords for TTL
flash where the T-20 requires the T-20 Autoshoe adapter (but both flashes
only do TTL with the OM-2 and newer cameras, not the OM-1).
> 4. Ever hear of reversing a 50mm lens on my OM1 and using it for close up
> shots? Why in the world should this work?
In theory the reversed lens is working closer to the optimized distance for
light rays to travel through it in that direction. Many macro subjects are
flat, and the reversed lens is optimized for rendering a flat plane at ~46mm
distance from the rear element of the lens. A real macro lens is much more
versatile for this, though.
> 5. I am drawn to stark, contrasty, sharp black and white photos. What film
> should I use, Tri-X or Tmax? Or maybe something else?
I don't do much black & white... when I did I liked TriX a lot, but I
believe its different than it was 20+ years ago...
> 6. The Photoworks lab does OK with color, but doesn?t develop and scan
> black and white film. Is there someone around who does this well and for a
> reasonable price?
I think at least on list member is offering 'custom level' processing of
black & white. Many 'pro' labs will do it, for a cost. Its not too difficult
to do yourself with attention to temperature and time.
> 7. Do you think there is a quality difference between the Om1 and Om2n, or
> are they all the same high quality?
I think the OM-1 and OM-2 were built to about the same quality level (damm
good). IMO, the OM-1n and OM-2n were probably as good as any OM cameras
Olympus built. They just have a (non-scientific very subjective) 'feel'
about their workings that even the OM-4T doesn't quite match. But that's
just MY opinion!
> 8. Does Olympus still sell anything for the OM cameras?
Some stuff is still available, but as it goes out of stock they aren't doing
much about replacing it. There may be independent retailers with stuff still
on their shelves also.
> 9. What is the best way to clean a lens without damaging it?
I predict 1000 answers coming on this one... I like to blow off any dust and
physical bits visible with 'canned air', then use a Q-tip wet with Windex on
it to gently (!) swab off the lens surface, then use a microfiber cloth to
wipe off the Windex. Use plenty of Windex (but not drowning the element,
just fully wet) so that any debris floats off. Turn the Q-tip and the
microfiber cloth frequently, and wash the microfiber cloth in the laundry
often.
> 10. Why is a 135mm/2.8 a telephoto lens, whereas a 135mm 4.5 is a macro
> lens?
The Zuiko 135/4.5 lens is a 'short mount' lens, made for use only with
bellows or the telescoping extension tube. As such, although it will focus
to infinity in either mount, it is mainly made for use in close-up
photography. The optical performance of this lens was optimized for best
performance in close-up ranges. The 135/2.8 is over 1 stop faster, and is
designed for best performance at 'normal' distance photography. It is a very
good lens for this use (somewhat under-rated IMO).
> 11. If Ebay is any measure, are prices for Olympus OM cameras, lenses, and
> accessories skyrocketing? Is this something we can expect to continue?
Some stuff is up, some is down. Condition and presentation make a big
difference in auctions, along with timing (which is somewhat unpredictable).
There were *two* 250/2.0 lenses there at the *same* time not too long
ago...! As Olympus is no longer actively supporting OM equipment, as long as
there is demand for certain items, the auction prices will stay strong or go
up. When no one wants it, the prices will decline... it looks to me like
there is still some good demand for OM bits, especially new-in-box or mint
condition items, the more exotic lenses, and some specialized accessories
and cult items... WE are the cult, pretty much.
>
Whew!
--
Jim Brokaw
OM-'s of all sorts, and no OM-oney...
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