OM-1N and 2N are of identical quality, and both models are still very
serviceable.
_________________________________
John Hermanson www.zuiko.com
Camtech, Olympus Sales & Service since 1977
21 South Lane, Huntington NY 11743-4714
631-424-2121 For Free Olympus manuals,
please call 1-800-221-3000
_________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "John A. Lind" <jlind@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [OM] This is the first time I have posted questions...
> At 15:16 4/28/03, Richard Smith wrote:
>
> >1. When might one want to lock up the mirror on an OM1, OM2, and OM2n?
>
> The M-1, OM-1 and OM-1n are the only bodies with a "real" MLU. The others
> have a "pseudo" MLU that prefires the mirror when using the
> self-timer. Purpose in using one is reduction of vibration from mirror
> slap. Useful for high magnification macros and when using very long
> lenses. Astro-photographers consider it a *must-have* feature.
>
> >2. I see ads for lenses that claim "absolutely no oil on the blades," or
> >"the diaphragm is oil free." What is the nature and cause of this
problem
> >that many Ebay sellers (especially) say they don't have?
>
>
>
> >3. I know it depends, but should I buy a T32 or a T20?
>
> Between the two I recommend the T-32 . . . higher power level (about one
> f-stop), three aperture settings in Normal-Auto (vs. two), reduced power
> mode and ability to tilt head upward (still no rotation though). All that
> said . . . my mainstay shoe mounts now are Metz 40 MZ-2 and Metz 40 MZ-3i
> with SCA-321 modules for TTL control (older SCA-320 module will also
> work). They have a little more power, allow selecting any aperture in
> Normal Auto, can rotate in addition to tilting, and have a secondary flash
> tube for about 20 0irect lighting when using bounce from main flash tube
> (can be switched on or of independent of tilt/rotation). A bit larger
than
> the T-32 but about the same weight and similar lower profile design
> compared to "cobra" style shoe mount flashes. Including cost of
> SCA-320/321 module, they're about 2X the cost of a T-32 in similar
> condition on the used market. IMHO, the Metz 40 MZ series units are what
> Olympus should have done to advance the T-32 instead of the F280.
>
> >4. Ever hear of reversing a 50mm lens on my OM1 and using it for close
up
> >shots? Why in the world should this work?
>
> Yes . . . haven't done it though and prefer using extension tubes, usually
> with the 85/2. Think of large image plane in space being mapped to a
much,
> much smaller image plane on film. Now reverse a lens on the front of
> another one and you can move in extremely close to an object for a high
> magnification macro.
>
> >5. I am drawn to stark, contrasty, sharp black and white photos. What
> >film should I use, Tri-X or Tmax?6. The Photoworks lab does OK with
> >color, but doesn t develop and scan black and white film. Is there
> >someone around who does this well and for a reasonable price?
>
> Tri-X is noted for its comparatively wide latitude (in addition to good
> mid-tones, an interesting grain that isn't "harsh," and tolerates being
> "pushed"). Wide latitude = lower contrast . . . on the negative. IIRC,
> TMax has a narrower latitude and will create greater contrast on the
> negative. Note that even if you have a lower contrast negative, contrast
> grade selection for print material can crank up the contrast. Check out
> pricing for "real" B&W prints from full service pro labs near you.
>
> >7. Do you think there is a quality difference between the Om1 and Om2n,
> >or are they all the same high quality?
>
> Don't own a "2n" so cannot comment.
>
> >8. Does Olympus still sell anything for the OM cameras?
>
> OM system was completely discontinued. IIRC it was end of 2002.
>
> >9. What is the best way to clean a lens without damaging it?
>
> Very carefully! :-)
> Too long for list posting. See this web page:
> http://www.photo.net/learn/cleaning-cameras#Lenses
> My tips: remove crudmium in this order:
> a. Blowing off with *clean* air.
> b. Brushing off with *clean* brush.
> c. Then use cleaning fluid and a lens cloth.
> Object is *not* to grind anything into the surface of the lens. IMHO
> abrasions (also called "cleaning marks") are *worse* than a minor scratch
> or nick. Heed instructions to put cleaning fluid onto a cleaning
> cloth! Puting fluid directly onto a lens can result in fluid getting
> inside the lens leaving residue rings inside the lens when it dries.
>
> >10. Why is a 135mm/2.8 a telephoto lens, whereas a 135mm 4.5 is a macro
lens?
>
> The 135/4.5 is only intended for use with the telescopic auto tube or
> bellows. Its focusing helical is only for fine focusing adjustment with
> coarse focusing performed using the telescopic tube or bellows. By design
> in conjunction with a telescopic tube or bellows, it's inherently a slower
> lens. Note that even if one used a 135/2.8 with enough extension tubes to
> achieve the .5X magnification of telescopic tube/bellows with the 135/4.5,
> there would be significant light reduction (spreading of image circle)
that
> would make it effectively and significantly slower also.
>
> >11. If Ebay is any measure, are prices for Olympus OM cameras, lenses,
> >and accessories skyrocketing? Is this something we can expect to
continue?
>
> Don't know that eB*y is any measure of real value or
> appreciation/depreciation trends. Prices have fluctuated there for some
> time. They go up and down periodically. May have taken a slight bump
with
> discontinuation but I don't anticiapte that lasting very long. The OM
> system is a **user** system, not a "glass case" collector one . . .
> although I've seen a few sellers try to advertise items as if they're
> selling "Like New" Leica LTM or M items. Some of the auction posting I've
> read are quite entertaining about alleged rarity . . . including the
Legend
> of the Secret Wyoming Factory!
> http://johnlind.tripod.com/omwyfactory.html
>
> -- John
>
>
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