At 15:16 5/11/03, Douglas wrote:
Two OM newbie questions.
First is probably an easy one: on my Winder 2, there is a connection at the
top back, two steel bars, that look like they go to a charger, but I see no
charger for a Winder 2 listed in the literature. What's up with this?
Nope, no charger. It's contacts for the 250 frame film back. You'll also
see a sliding cover on the top, rear right side that exposes a gear. Keep
it closed . . . unless you're using a 250 frame film back . . . which is
what it's for also.
There is an electrical socket in the middle of the switch underneath the
mode selection (power) switch. This is for an accessory 6 Volt power pack
(M.6V Power Pack 1) which holds four "AA" cells. Reason? Severe cold
weather; allows keeping the batteries warm in a pocket. Tip is "-" and
ring is "+" and plugging in a remote power source disconnects the internal
batteries. On top near the button is another electrical jack. This is for
a remote release cable. It's a standard, mono, sub-mini phone jack. The
accessory switch is a simple, single-pole, normally-open pushbutton with
cord and sub-mini phone jack on the other end. Close the circuit between
ring and tip on the plug and it fires the shutter.
If you ever get a Bounce Grip 2 flash handle (for T-20 or T-32) or a T-45
flash handle, Olympus made short cords for each to wire the shutter release
button on the flash handle to the Winder 2.
Second, and more frightening: my OM-2N seems to work well enough, but
there is a lot of dirt trapped between the inside of the viewfinder glass
and the back-side of the prism. I am mechanically adept enough to open up
the top, with the right tools (maybe a good investment anyway<g>)but I don't
want to make more of a mess inside (flaky prism-housing foam, things falling
out, etc)by messing with it than by leaving it alone. Should I just wait
'til I have the money (about $120) for a good CLA, or should I invest $45 of
it in the tools and do it myself?
My opinion:
I don't recommend this unless you have experience working on cameras . . .
and have a couple of scrap "parts" bodies to practice on first. Getting
the bottom of a camera off and working under it is usually much
easier. The top is complex; all the controls pass through it. In
addition, *no* shop will work on it if you get half-way through the task,
figure out it's beyond your abilities (or get stuck), and ship them a box
of parts to finish it.
I've had the top off an old Contax rangefinder. Quite tedious with oodles
of very small parts. It was like working on something between a miniature
mechanical clock and a watch with disassembly/reassembly anything but
straight forward. After that one experience I now leave this type of work
to those who have been trained for it, and have experience doing it.
-- John
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