I use the 91 0.000000or cleaning chromed and black metal surfaces on cameras. I
haven't had any problems with damaging finishes. I also have some 99% which
I had the pharmicist at Target order for me, it was about 4X as costly (~$3
per pint) as the 91%. This stronger concentration seems to instantly
dissolve the bad foam seal residue in cases where I've used it in refoaming
backs.
I use the 91% to clean lens elements, wiping with a clean microfiber cloth
seems to get a nearly perfect clean without any leftover marks. For
unsticking leaf shutter elements and cleaning oily aperture blades and
aperture mechanisms I use Ronsonol, which I believe is naptha which has
allegedly been filtered for use in lighters... when I finish out my little
5oz bottle I'll probably buy a quart of painter's naptha at the hardware
store (naptha is sold as a 'drying accelerator' for oil-base paints). Much
cheaper by the quart.
I also keep some acetone around, it works very well for cutting adhesive
residue, but it is a very agressive solvent and -will- damage some plastics
- frosts clear plastic, dissolves and damages the finish on black plastics.
Be sure to test carefully before you wipe acetone anywhere.
I find that for safest cleaning of camera and lens surfaces Windex seems to
be a good choice. I've never damaged any surface wiping it with Windex (the
clear blue stuff). YMMV, of course, so test on a 'safe' surface before
committing any solvent to a precious camera or lens.
--
Jim Brokaw
OM-'s of all sorts, and no OM-oney...
on 6/5/03 6:13 PM, Joe Gwinn at joegwinn@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Isopropyl alcohol from drugstores in the US comes in two strengths, 70% and
> 91%. The balance is water. The 91 0s the strength to use on cameras. Not
> that it matters; I have never succeeded in dissolving adhesive gunk with
> isopropyl alcohol, though it does work with oil and dirt.
>
> Joe
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