While it is not quite as convenient as 'popping' the level into the hot
shoe, I have always set the level on the baseplate. The base plates seem
to be in much better level related to the film plane than hot shoes. One
guy I knew actually glued a level onto the camera back.
Jim Couch
Wilcox, Joel F wrote:
>Chuck,
>My workaround is to test each body with a 1-10 screen, an up and down
>line drawn with a carpenter's 4' level, and see where the bubble in the
>spirit level ends up when all is otherwise squared up.
>
>Since one of the things that the repair guys regularly have to do in
>overhauling OM-2S's and OM-4(x)'s is batten down the shoes, I'd say
>Olympus didn't have any sort of precision in mind in this part of the
>design.
>
>Joel W.
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx
>>[mailto:olympus-owner@xxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Chuck Norcutt
>>Sent: Friday, March 19, 2004 8:54 AM
>>To: olympus@xxxxxxxxxx
>>Subject: [OM] Non-level hot shoes, was: 24/3.5 Club
>>
>>Yes, I have exactly the same problem after having invested
>>about USD30 in a nice, non-Bogen level. Is there any
>>specification for the degree of level for the hotshoes? My
>>guess is that there is not. Anyone have a solution? Maybe
>>scribing some additional marks on the level for when the
>>camera is level and the level is not?
>>
>>Chuck Norcutt
>>
>>Wilcox, Joel F wrote:
>>
>>
>>>The spirit level has some limitations. Mainly I don't have a camera
>>>whose shoe is truly square to the film.
>>>
>>>
>
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