> Joel, thanks for the link,
> Perhaps comming from a record playing hifi background I wanted a pure
> approach with little or no automatic correction and tinkering. I guess
> this is probably not practical.
>
> Thanks for the links I will have a good look
> >
> > James,
> > Have you thoroughly acquainted yourself with this site:
> >
> > http://www.scantips.com/
> >
> > http://www.halftone.co.uk/tech/filmscan/maillist.htm
> >
> > Hope this helps,
>
> P.S.
> Hope I have not started a war!
James,
You're welcome and best of luck.
The negative vs. slide discussion recurs and you'll see it all over the
Filmscanners list. The difficulties in getting anything clear from
snippets of discussion is that people enter the fray with different
assumptions. Negatives are easier for the *scanner* to scan and get all
the information than slides, but whether that makes the result easier
for you to work with or acceptable to you is another matter.
I think your notion of trying slides is not all that bad. Don't use
Kodachrome. You might try an E6 film of broad latitude like Agfa RSX,
but any E6 will do. You'll at least be able to determine if the scanner
can do a slide and isn't broken.
With negatives on Vuescan, just to get you going, go to the "Colors"
menu and select "White balance". That will work for many many images
and get you something at least acceptable for almost all of them. I'm
sorry my version of Vuescan is not up to date. I hesitate to say more
about it because it changes like the wind.
Ultimately, if you can get software that presents you with a histogram
and allows you to set the dark and light points on it, you will have the
control you desire. I've often found it useful to use the program's
Auto-everything button just to see what the program calculates to be a
good result and then see if simple levels adjustments come closer to the
mark. Often they do.
Cheers,
Joel W.
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