There are lots of ways to skin a cat.
I like to select the area (and it can be a lot of smaller areas that all
need the same adjustment) to be adjusted , feather the selections when
the edges aren't hard, and copy them to a new level. I can then adjust
and readjust them without ever losing the original. That way I can see
the effect on the whole area at once as I make adjustments. It also
allows doing things like local contrast adjustment on a selection that
can't be done by brush.
By selecting the inverse, I can make any necessary adustments to the
other part of the scene, either in the base level or on a new level.
It's also possible to work with more than 2 parts. Selecting with the
Magic Wand, Lasso, Magnetic Lasso, etc. can be a bit tedious, but one
gains proficiency fairly quickly. And unlike techniques that use a
brush, nothing is actually changed until the selection is complete and
any changes are easily reversable, readjustable, etc. The effect(s) can
also be subtly adjusted by changing the opacity of the level(s) .
Moose
Winsor Crosby wrote:
>Chris,
>
>You should seldom have to burn in things with tools that are much
>easier to use.
>
>Blends: Although this talks about two exposures you can do two
>renditions of the same file, one for best sky and one for best
>foreground and blend them. You can use a large hard brush eraser for
>the large areas and a small soft edged one for the transitions.
>
>http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/blended_exposures.shtml
>
>Curves: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/command_primer.shtml
>
>
Graham Battison wrote:
>Hi Chris,
>
>I use as big as brush as possible (with soft edges) and set the strength (the
>% box) to about 7% to ensure that I make only small changes with each sweep.
>Repeat as necessary.
>
>
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