Seems you got much better tools than me, I never use any calibration tool
but I got very accurate result with my workflow for both slide output and
Fuji Frontier output, that is all I need. I never use inkjet, it doesn't
look right for me especially I print mostly 4x6. The resolution of inkjet is
low compared with Fuji Frontier (I still miss the good quality optical print
but it is no longer feasable) at this print size.
For monitor I set it at 5000K. I use a 5000K light box to compare my scan, I
set a very minor twist curve for the 4000ED, which gives constant result
with RDP III. Every scan is closely matched with the light box view.
For slide output I use sRGB (I know most pro may say they will use Adobe
RGB), my Polaroid film recorder matched very well with sRGB although it does
not say what profile it use.
For prints, I only use Fuji Frontier, there is a cheap one hour lab here
which gives me consistent result (tell them to make direct output without
adjustment). My first step is download the Fuji Frontier profile from Pop
Photo web site and use it with PS (remember at the Proof Setup click the
"Simulate Paper White" box). Then I use reverse engineering method, output
at least ten different prints with different scenes, most important is to
include some peoples shots (IMO it is the most difficult one to cal.).
Compare the prints with the monitor display, use a light source which is
close to your monitor's color temp. to view the prints (you may also need a
lamp with high color rendering index). Then adjust your display card's curve
setting to make it close to what you see on the prints, repeat with
different prints and save the curve. With this method I have thousands of
prints made and it proof to work very well for me.
C.H.Ling
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne S" <om4t@xxxxxxxx>
> I use a Samsung SyncMaster 213T LCD and have it calibrated using
> Photocal. I also have a Sony G500 monitor for comparison. For the most
> part the LCD works fine but darks can be a problem. I still have to
> rely a bit on the levels in PS and test the print. A color managed
> workflow does not necessarily mean everything will be the same. It
> can only work in the case of the least common denominator. I think
> getting the darks right is the hardest part of the whole digital
> darkroom, and I'm never sure when the color profiles are going to clip
> those regions. Printing is even more difficult to get good blacks.
> This shot will show any printer defects quick, banding in particular:
>
> http://www.zuik.net/E1/waterfire_8284686.jpg
>
> Of course the contrast range is very wide. Still, on the epson 2200
> I cannot get the blacks to print well. Maybe I should try some matte
> paper with matte black?
>
> Wayne
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