Hi Chris,
I can't answer your question on the E-1, but I have some remarks on using
the T-32 (on a BG2 w/ Sto-Fen) with a newly bought Minolta A2.
I used this rig on Thanksgiving to take inside flash snaps, and was really
pleased with the results. The T32 was on regular "AUTO" and the A2 was
full manual. First of all I was impressed with the way the T32 controls
itself through that tiny hole on the "O". I had to tweak the settings a
bit to get optimal results, but not by much . . . with both the flash and
camera set at f8 and ISO 100, I don't think I went more than 1/2 stop
either way. You gotta love digital workflow with strobes--just pop off a
few test shots, check the EVF (fabulous on the A2) adjust the settings to
taste and forget it.
I exposed for the highlights, and still got lots of shadow detail. An OM
on full TTL/OTF can only make a guess at this kind of thing. It's the
digital equivalent of the old "flashmatic" feature in 70's RF's, where you
can focus on--and expose for--any part of the scene.
I tried out the A2 with a simple studio set-up, and I'm still working
things out. There are more trade-offs here. You can forget about really
shallow DOF with a 7-50mm zoom and a tiny sensor. The A2 is best at ISO
64 or 100, and f4 or 5.6 I can only dial my power pack down to 100WS. So
I need to physically cut the light output or use a ND filter on the A2.
I did notice by setting the shutter to 1/2000, I can exclude some of the
output on the flash tubes, maybe 1/2 stop. I'm not sure why this happens.
I'm now a big fan of full manual flash control in digital. I can't see
spending the $ on a dedicated flash for any high-end digital camera,
yet--at least for my purposes. Even with macro, the ability to proof
every exposure in real time beats the most sophisticated algorithms on a
dedicated strobe. That PC socket is a "must have" item.
Morgan Sparks
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