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[OM] Re: Macro stuff

Subject: [OM] Re: Macro stuff
From: Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:59:36 -0800
Matthew Born wrote:

>OK, I'm hoping to kick off a little thread here. As I stare at 12 inches of
>snow, I'm pondering fun thoughts of spending money I don't have. I'm
>interested in some close up photography, a thing I've never done, and I'm
>looking for input on a couple of things. The bellows and focusing stage and
>all that is probably out, at least until I get hooked. So...the extension
>tubes...are the manual tubes really a pain?
>
Yes

> And how exactly does one stop
>down to focus? Do you use the depth of field button? Is there any reason to
>spend the extra dough on Olympus tubes vs. the Vivitar ones? I assume there
>isn't any difference in the quality, since there's no glass involved, but I
>do see that the Vivitar variety are different lengths. They sure are
>cheaper.
>
As Steve said, the Olys are better made, but I"ve been perfectly happy 
with the Vivs. I have both, not only for the prefectly correct reasons 
he gives, but for the much more varied combinations available that way.

>And then there's the issue of macro lenses.
>
Lots of good info/advice in the posts already made. Confusing too, with 
so many options.

To my mind, there are 3 basic categories  of macro work that I do.

1. Flat copy work, such as books, pictures, etc. Here you want edge to 
edge sharpness and for straight lines to remain straight. I've done a 
lot of this over the last few years. For this work, forget everything 
but true macro lenses. I have used a couple of 50/3.5s and a Tamron 
90/2.5 and can say unequivocally that they are both excellent. Speed 
doesn't matter at all to me, as I use lights and a copy stand I made by 
converting a cheap enlarger by removing the head and making an adapter. 
Here you only use extension tubes.

2. 3D objects where focus is only possible at all in the central portion 
and neither possible nor usually desirable at the edges and in the 
corners. Here is where all the various other techniques mentioned in the 
other posts come into play. However, the recommendations didn't make 
another important distinction. It may not be important to the snowbound, 
but will when he gets hooked on macro and ventures outside.

2a. Inanimate objects. Lenses like the 50/3.5 and 50/2 work great, as do 
many of the reversed, doubled, etc.

2b. Outdoors and animate thingies. Here things change a lot. Short focal 
length lenses have short distances from the front of the lens to the 
subject at macro magnifications. The front of a 50/3.5 at 1:2 closeest 
focus is about 4 inches from the subject. With a 25mm extension tube, it 
gets worse. This makes capturing bugs, spiders and other animate 
thingies more difficult. It makes the incidence of shadows on the 
subject from camera/lens/ photographer annoyingly common. It also turns 
out that it is hard to get physically that close to the subject in lots 
of natural settings.

For these uses, I much prefer a longer focal length lens.

The Tamron 90/2.5 is an excellent lens that focuses from infinity to 
1:2. When used with the matching 2x teleconverter, it becomes a 180/5  
that focuses directly from infinity to 1:1. I don't think I would have 
got the shot of this critter with a 50mm lens, and it would have been 
hard with 90mm, even if I didn't scare the wasp, because of stuff in the 
way underfoot <http://moosemystic.net/Gallery/Tam902.5/>.

The Zuiko 90/2 is a great lens, but doesn't go as close as I often want. 
The Zuiko 2x teleconverter doesn't fit it, so one must use extension 
tubes or a 3rd party converter.

The Kiron 105/2.8 is a wonderful true macro lens that focuses from 
infinity to 1:1 directly. Vivitar, Tamron and ?? made/make 90/2.8 lenses 
with the same focal range that I have not tried but others here say good 
things about.

A Zuiko 50/1.4 or 1.8 with a Vivitar 2x MacroTeleconverter become 
100/2.8/3.6 lenses that focus from infinity to 1:1. A great travel combo.

The Zuiko 135/4.5 is another excellent lens. With the 65-116 tube, it 
focuses from infinity to almost 1:2. To get closer, you need the bellows.



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