I don't know if this is helpful, but I ran across the same problem recently
with my beloved OM-2s - and sorry if my inexperience is stating the obvious
here...
I'm starting my first forays into studio lighting. After getting my last
roll of film developed I noticed that some of the flash shots had a black
bar down the left hand side. Some of the photos were taken with a T32
mounted in the shoe, and some were taken with a sync cord attached to an
Alien Bees monolight. With the latter setup I had the T32 on a slave to
overexpose a white wall behind the subject. Shutter speeds were all 1/60.
The black bar showed up only in the sync cord shots; the T32's all came out
fine. I'm chalking it up to one of two things:
1) Flash sync at 1/60 only works with OEM flashes (T32, T20, etc.) and
other brands and/or PC sync requires 1/30.
2) User error. It's possible that the PC sync/Alien Bees setup, I left the
camera set to auto instead of manual. The OTF sensor may have sensed a
properly exposed photo, especially with the T32 on the white background,
and closed the shutter earlier than 1/60.
I'm leaning towards solution 2. I'll be conducting some more tests this
weekend, with the camera set to both manual and auto. If anyone on the list
has any other suggestions or links to websites dealing with OM flash, I'd
love to hear them. The OM-2s manual isn't too helpful on this topic.
I wonder if the same problem might occur if you are using the auto setting
with a non-Olympus T-series flash?
> Question: I have an OM2S which works fine most of the time, but which
>tends to leave dark portions on the left-hand side of the image on
>occasions, because the curtain sync is off or something. I took it to a
>local repair place, and they quoted me $250 (~US$200) to fix it, which
>seems reasonable given how much fiddling around there is involved and
>apparently OM2S's are more complicated internally than most, but it's
>still a fair bit of money.
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