One trick on setting exposures using the histogram is as follows:
make a card that's half pure white, half flat black. Hold the card
at the subject and fill the frame, then shoot at your chosen
exposure. Then bring up the histogram for that image -- if your
exposure is "correct", there should be peaks at both ends. If you
get an early peak, then fall off on one side or the other, your
exposure is not optimal.
Next "suggestion" is to shoot for slight underexposure to be sure to
capture detail on the bride's dress (assuming it to be white). No one
is going to care about detail on the groom's suit, but the bride will
be crushed if she can't see the detailed stitching, the lace, etc., on
her wedding dress!
Digitals process image data when saving in compressed mode, "clipping"
highlights and shadows in most cases. RAW is not supposed to, at least
any more than technically necessary. I've seen remarkable improvements
made to shadow detail in images that appeared "blocked up" using data
from RAW files that was lost in compressed files. Of course, unless
your exposure is too far off, all that "data" is in a negative or slide
to begin with. Given the circumstances, I would shoot both digital and
film.
> Wayne said:
> I haven't yet had any of the digital pics printed, but based on
viewing
> them on the monitor, digital does not have near the range of
capturing
> detail in the darker areas as does the the Kodak Portra. I'm not sure
if
> that would hold true if I had an E-1 or other DSLR with a bigger
sensor.
> But based on what I shot last evening, I wouldn't want to abandon
film
> if I were a "real" wedding photographer.
> ---------------------------------------------------------
>
> Anybody going from film to digital should read and understand this:
> <http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml>
>
> Chuck Norcutt
>
>
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