I'm afraid I don't understand protection fuses in batteries. I conclude
that they are supposed to be in rechargeable lithiums but why is this
a big deal? Have any other batteries I've ever used (alkaline, NiCad or
NiMH) had protection fuses? Won't my camera have to develop a short
circuit before any protection fuse would ever come into play?
The inexpensive batteries I bought on the bay (I won't say cheap since I
haven't seen any indication of it yet) were advertised as assembled in
China from Japanese manufactured cells. As I said before, they test out
to have exactly the same capacity as the 1500 mAh Minolta originals. I
shot a Bat Mitzvah party last Saturday night and took about 450
exposures. I started shooting about 7:30 and finished about 0:45 so the
camera was on almost continuously for close to 5 hours. The anti-shake
was on the entire time (I always forget to turn it off) as was the
display screen. I have the optional grip which takes two cells but
those two lasted the entire night. The battery status indicator turned
red near the end but all was still working well.
The only premature battery failure I have ever experienced was about two
weeks ago with a PowerEx NiMH cell from Thomas Distributing. The cell
was about 18 months old and would never give a full charge indication in
the Maha charger.
Chuck Norcutt
Mark Dapoz wrote:
> Don't be so quick to conclude that OEM's are gouging. I've bought a few
> of those cheap Asian batteries (the Olympus version) and after seeing what's
> inside, I would never use them. There's a reason they're inexpensive, they
> cut every concievable corner they can. Everything from leaving out required
> protection fuses to using very poor cells. If you value your equipment,
> don't use the really cheap Asian batteries. Good name brand quality 3'rd
> party batteries (eg Enengizer) are a better choice. They'll cost more but
> you'll at least be getting something safe.
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