Rob & Michelle Gilmore wrote:
> Help! I've been asked by close friends to photograph a small "Battle of the
> Bands" this coming Friday night. There will be 10 bands playing 12 min sets.
> I'll have full access to roam anywhere. I'll be using a C-7070 and OM4T. I
> hope to use the 7070 as the primary camera due to it's auto focus and ability
> to change ISO on the fly. The shots will be used primarily for the web and
> possibly small prints.
>
>
>
> C-7070 - Can anyone suggest proper settings (ISO, white-balance)? I've only
> used it once for daytime shots (it's the office camera). Only have 1 battery
> that I'll charge before the show. I've got a 512MB card. The settings I'm
> looking at should give me 150 +/- shots which should be plenty. I'd prefer
> to use available lighting if possible however I'm not sure of the light setup
> the bar has.
You desperately need to find out as much as you can about the lighting.
Go there ahead of time and check and experiment. If dark enough you
might not be able to get any shots or you may not have enough light to
focus. I have no experience with the C-7070 but even good P&S cameras
are not well known for low light focusing. The camera has tremendous
depth of field at moderate apertures and the shorter half of the zoom
range. So it's possible to manually focus at about 12 feet and then
forget about further focus from about 6 feet on. However, if it's dark
and the camera is wide open at 2.8 you'll begin to rapidly lose that
great DOF and, without refocusing, you're likely to find yourself in
focusing difficulty zoomed to more than about 50mm equivalent.
>
>
> OM4T (available F280 or T32) - I don't do much if any flash work. Plan on
> using some 400 print film. Is there a base setting that might let me get by
> with minimum fuss (focus and go)? I've got an 80/2, 35-70/3.6,
> 35-105/3.5-4.5, 75-150/4. Would prefer a zoom mostly.
I think there's a fundamental question of light here. With no flash ISO
400 may be plenty or woefully inadequate. Goes for both cameras. You
need to find out.
If I had to use flash and had only what you have available I'd add two
items. First, a tripod (or light stand) with 1/4-20 mounting screw.
Then I'd run over to the nearest Ritz photo store and for about $10-$12
buy one of their optical slave flash units. This has a 1/4-20 socket on
the bottom and a hotshoe on the top. Mount one of the flash units on
this slave sensor on the tripod. Use this light as a background light
arranged to bounce off ceiling or walls. It will be relatively dim and
not have to be figured into your flash exposure but will add a bit of
light to the background and keep it from being a black hole. Then use
the other flash as a direct flash. If the background light can be
arranged to fall obliquely on the band after bouncing off wall or
ceiling it may also help reduce shadow from the direct flash.
Since the T-32 is more powerful than the F-280 and has a tilt head it
might be a better background light as long as the F-280 is strong enough
straight on. However, since the background light is located on a tripod
the tripod should allow pointing the fixed angle F-280 wherever you want
it. If you use the T-32 in the hotshoe you could put it in auto mode
when on the C-7070.
Doing any of this stuff, however, implies casing the joint and figuring
out what the real lighting and room size situation is. Experiment
first, not during the event. You've only got 12 minutes per group and
you want the first group to come out as good as the last.
Chuck Norcutt
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> -Rob G.
>
> ==============================================
> List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
> List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
> ==============================================
>
==============================================
List usage info: http://www.zuikoholic.com
List nannies: olympusadmin@xxxxxxxxxx
==============================================
|