James Royall wrote:
> I see that Chuck's provided hyperfocal tables, which I'd actually be
> interested in adapting; I would like to move the zone of acceptable
> focus closer - I don't mind if things towards infinity are out of
> focus as, in a crowd, the subject is going to be typically much
> closer. I would, with the 24mm/2.8 focus somewhere around 9 feet for
> a loser crowd and around 6 feet for a denser crowd. I say around
> because the focus scale on the lens get knocked out of whack on an E-
> *. With the 14-54 I would set the shutter release so that it fires
> even if the camera has not found focus for instant response, and then
> keep focussing it on subjects that are about the expected subject
> distance. That way if the camera has a chance to focus then fine, if
> not then focus will be approximately right. With both lenses I would
> aim for about f5.6 to give the equivalent depth of field of f8 on 35mm.
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As I've pointed out here several times before I do all of my DOF
calculation using the free DOF calculator supplied by the good folks at
Digital Light & Color, makers of Picture Window.
Go to <http://www.dl-c.com/Temp/> then click on the "downloads" tab and
scroll down to the DOF caculator. There are lots of other good "white
paper" tutorials free for the asking further down the page.
Anyhow, when using the DOF caculator with the E-1 or E-300 be sure to
change the resolution setting from the 35mm film default of 30 lines/mm
to 60 lines/mm for the small digital sensor. You need double the
resolution on the sensor since you're going to have to enlarge 4/3 size
images twice as much as 35mm for a given size print. The default
setting of 30 lines/mm for 35mm film is considered reasonable sharpness
for normal viewing of an 8x10 enlargement. See the help file that comes
with the calculator for more info like this.
Chuck Norcutt
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