My experience with Bronica was at the airplane factory in the seventies and
early eighties, with the 645 whatever. It was new then, and I remember that
the lenses were staggeringly sharp compared with our slightly older RB67
lenses, which were flare factories. The RB's, on the other hand, were tanks,
both literally and figuratively. Once i lost my balance inside a test
article fuselage, and chose to drop the camera and save myself. No damage at
all!
When it came time to go mf on my own dime, I went with the 'blad. I know
there are some who have had reliability issues with them, but I've had no
problems that didn't relate to age and use. When I think what I paid for
them, I turn even more white, but then I look at the results, and the color
returns. My last two purchases ( 500ELX for $180 and a pristine 250 for
$600) were more affordable, but I'm still going to take a bath if I ever
sell.
Right now, you can get stuff really cheap. I don't know how long that will
last, as at least one Fuji rep for our area says film sales are increasing,
as photographers are using a combination of film and digital. You can
certainly get the older chrome lenses at bargain prices. Remember, though,
the mainsprings for the C lenss are NLA, although my repairman says there's
a good chance there will be an after market supplier.
All but one of my lenses are T*, Zeiss' name for their coating. Some think
you should stay with one or the other, as there is some difference in color
balance. for me, the difference is quite subtle. There is an increase in
flare resistance with the new coatings, but you will use a hood, won't you?
You should be able to get a 50 for $400-600 in chrome, perhaps a bit more
with T*. That is a great lens. The 40 (got one, I'm in the market) can be a
challenge to use, and most don't use it except in small spaces. The price of
the 40 remains high, so it probably is in demand for those with digital
backs.
150's always have been affordable, as they are the wedding/portrait lens of
choice, and there were tons made.
The back insert has a sticker with the last three numbers of the serial
number, and it is advised that the back and insert match. Many report that
unmatched sets perform just as well.
It's a great camera, and the prices are great if you're buying. They are
reliable, and being all mechanical, continue to be repairable.
Bill Pearce
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