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[OM] Macro with other systems

Subject: [OM] Macro with other systems
From: "Brian Swale" <bj@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 11:36:41 +1300
Hi all

As some of you know, I am active in circles to do with fern plants. In order to 
help someone, I posted this page on the internet.

http://homepages.caverock.net.nz/~bj/fern-query/u-mass.htm

I asked the photographer how he took the top photo, which I said was very 
sharp and nice.  Here is his reply; and I was surprised to learn that a Canon 
user found it desirable to take extreme anti-vibration measures.    Brian

QUOTE
Thanks, I'm glad you like the photo. I used a Canon Digital Rebel XT (EOS 
350D) with the 60mm EF-S F2.8 macro lens specifically designed for 
cameras with the 1.6 crop sensor (the Digital Rebels and the 10D and 20D). 
Thanks to the automatic data-gathering functions, I can tell you I shot this at
ISO 400, F16, and 0.8 seconds. I used a tripod, and probably also used my 
remote trigger and mirror lock-up to avoid any possible camera shake (my 
tripod is a cheap thing I picked up at a consignment shop, so I don't expect 
too much from it). I probably had the white balance set to "cloudy" or 
"shade," and if any direct light was falling on the subject, I shaded it with my
hand, though I think this fern was already in full shade.

The sharpening is another story: I believe that all digital cameras will 
sharpen images in-camera unless you specifically tell them not to. I've read, 
though, that sharpening is the very last thing you should do to a photo, so 
I've turned off the in-camera sharpening on my camera. After I resized this 
image, I sharpened it using the "unsharp mask" function in either PhotoShop 
(which I have at home) or ArcSoft PhotoStudio (which I have at work). 
Unsharp mask is not generally considered to be digital manipulation, 
perhaps because it's based on an authentic darkroom technique from the 
days of film, and perhaps because it won't do you any good unless your 
image is sharp enough to begin with.  END QUOTE

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