If you're referring to the sound the distance ring makes when it hits either
end of it's travel, re-lubing might help, if only by making the turn
stiffer. The "stops" are provided by a brass post on the inside of the
distance ring striking a brass post on the helicoid frame. Anything you
might put in the way to soften the sound will keep the lens from reaching
either extreme (infinity and/or close focus). Relube with fresh, stiff
grease will make it turn more slowly, and reduce the sound.
> I'm concerned about this kind of movement, but in my 21/3.5
> It sounds like a metallic 'clack', which leads me to think of a loose or
> broken screw rather than wear on the guide or track (or is it that I wish
No, removing the PSK 1.4x1.5 ST screws will only free the cover over the
aperture stop-down ring, and the screws holding the brass helicoid guide
will still be covered by the mount. You would have to remove the PUK 2x3
SG's to get the mount off. Stripping and relubing a helicoid is not a DIY
> Problem is that PUK2 x3 SG are too tight, and I fear damaging them, or its
> head at least.
> Is there another way to reach the screws holding the brass guide, perhaps
> unscrewing PSK 14 x 15 ST ?
> on 6/03/2006 18:00, PhotoSphere Olympus Camera Service at
> > If you're concerned about the movement, remove the mount and check the
> > screws holding the brass guide (there's only one on this model). If
> > screws are tight, the problem may be due to wear on either the guide and
> > it's track or the threads of the helicoid, or both.
> >> Dear 16mm fisheye owners, I need your advice :
> >> Is it normal with this lens to have a real tiny bit of play between the
> >> bajonett mount and the rest of the lens ?
> >> (It can not be fixed by tightening the screws on the bajonett mount)
> >> Please reply offline to
> >> oiwert@xxxxxxx
> >> Thanks in advance
> >> Olaf Iwert (the second Iwert on the list)
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