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[OM] Re: Need help removing bounce grip 2 part

Subject: [OM] Re: Need help removing bounce grip 2 part
From: "ClintPhotosphere" <olyfix@xxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 23:10:53 -0700
You might be able to remove the four screws holding the cover from the 
back, but the wires to the plug may not be long enough to spread 
things apart for repair.  If not, you'll have to do a bit more 
disassembly.

If you don't have a right-angle drive (such as is used to service the 
OM-2/2n), you might try taking two "+" bits, heat them and bend them 
into a right angle, one with the bend in line with the flutes, one at 
45 degrees off -- then you can switch from bit to bit, turning the 
screws a little each time.

Or you can remove the whole track that the bracket (and TTL plug) 
attach to.  You have to first peel back the _top_ edges of the 
leatherette covering the battery chamber to expose the six screws that 
hold the head into the grip.  Once these screws are out, the head just 
slides out -- the remote trigger assembly just slips into place at the 
front of the head, and be careful of the wires.  As long as you don't 
have a flash attached and batteries inside, there's not chance of a 
shock, btw.

Once that's done, peel back the edges of the leatherette along the 
edges of the bracket's track to expose the screws on either side that 
hold it onto the battery chamber.  Once the track is free, you can 
slide it out of the battery chamber with the wires and head attached.  
Now you can easily get to the screws that hold the TTL plug/cover in 
place.


 

> On my bounce grip 2 there are two cracks in the housing that 
surrounds the 
> TTL auto cord socket. One crack runs from the base of the housing to 
the 
> edge of the plastic surrounding the socket.  The other runs from the 
base 
> of the housing to the base of the plastic surrounding the socket. 
The piece 
> doesn't look as if it will imminently fall apart. However, if I can 
safely 
> remove the entire housing/socket assembly I should be able to glue 
and 
> clamp it together.
> 
> So, what is the proper way to remove it?  John?  Clint?  I've looked 
at 
> Mark Dapoz's diagrams but am not sure if I need to remove any of the 
screws 
> inside the grip.  If so, it looks like I'll need another specialized 
> tool--right angle phillips head screwdriver.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
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