Tom
I skimmed through your galleries and I like many of your people
shots. Most of them seem to be at ease with your pointing a camera
at them ...
On the subject of settings on the E-1, here's what Ag Schnozz (aka
Ken Norton) sent out to us all nearly 12 months ago. I am pretty
sure that he won't mind my using his words of wisdom for the common
good. I have used his guidance since then, particularly since I did
not know that half of the settings existed.
Even if you find that you don't agree with his ideas, Ken's posts are
worth a read to help with your own thought processes.
Finally, you should be aware that there is a .pdf camera manual which
is much more useful than the printed one that comes with the camera.
Chris
~~ >-)-
C M I Barker
Cambridgeshire, Great Britain.
+44 (0)7092 251126
www.threeshoes.co.uk
homepage.mac.com/zuiko
On 2 Jun 2006, at 10:07, Fenwick,Thomas,YORK,GROUP IS wrote:
> Speaking of giving the E1 a workout, and shooting events in JPG
> mode, I survived my first job over the weekend. Some of the
> results are here:
> http://www.pbase.com/tom_77/york_live
>
> About the sharpening setting; the scale goes to -2 which I guess
> probably means 0 really; which setting do you use?
>
> I have had my E1 since some time in February and I'm really getting
> to like it...
>
> Tom
>
From: AG Schnozz <agschnozz at ...>
Date: 10 June 2005 15:28:09 BDT
To: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Subject: [OM] Re: E-1 what's the first settings you changed
Reply-To: ~~~~~~~~~~~
My settings keep evolving as I learn the system more and more.
However, here goes on a few items:
Use RAW whenever you are in a tricky situation or you've got that
killer shot that must be perfect. If you can't get the WB right, pop
it into RAW and don't worry about it. The best way to learn the
various image settings in the E-1 is to play with those settings in
Olympus Viewer. You'll get instant feedback of each saturation, WB,
sharpness, contrast or color mode change.
My portrait/wedding/event/go anywhere settings are as follows:
Saturation CS2, Contrast -1, sharpness +2, sRGB, ISO 200, JPEG HQ
(+RAW when shooting formals and anything else that will either be
printed up bigger than 8x10 or the lighting is wonky).
I did quite a bit of testing between SHQ and HQ and the differences
are so minor (for people photography) as to be a non-issue. I still
have no specific preference between one and three-point AF, but I do
turn the AF illuminator off as it is a bit boorish and doesn't really
help. If I'm using flash, I use manual mode (adjusting for 1-2
stops under exposed), flash on auto (usually in bounce-card
orientation) and manually set the WB to 5300-6000 depending on the
flash unit. The E-1 nails everything so well that other than some
confirmation chimping, I'm more than happy with JPEG HQ for the 90%
rule. The drive mode I set to single-frame and the autofocus is AF
+Manual. The AEL is (I think #5) which is AEL-Toggle and AF set at
exposure not half-press. Oh, I usually use ESP as it really does
work pretty well.
Landscape and personal work. I use RAW+JPEG SQ. My SQ setting is
1024 8:1. This way, I've got instant computer screen backgrounds
with zero post-processing and a "guiding image" for post-production
work. Most of the rest of the settings are as listed above. Rarely
will I use Auto WB because of the various ancient lenses I use as
well as a tendency for it to be fooled by the lighting conditions I
frequently shoot in. Having shot daylight balanced slide films for
years, I prefer to make the camera match what I'm used to and I know
what to expect. Rarely am I wrong, but once in a while I really blow
it and have to fix in post. Another HUGE advantage of the SQ
setting is fast sorting and review. When in "light-table" sorting
mode I just work on the SQ jpeg files to find my keepers. Once I've
identified my keepers I then retrieve the matching RAW files.
Usually I do my initial sortdown of the SQ files right on the CF (or
plugged in camera) and only transfer to the harddrive the keepers.
Once the keepers are transfered I format the CF. Shooting RAW
actually saves you postprocessing time with the E-1. Sounds
peculiar to say that. In many cases this is true. However, for my
typical megashoots where I'm doing 300-600 pictures at a time I'd
rather get it right "in camera" and the E-1 truely delivers! It
takes a while to develop the settings and learn how to interpret
what you are seeing in "chimp mode", but it'll really save time.
I've got the ability to batch process JPEGs so a colorcast
correction is pretty easy to do to 100-200 images at a time. *
ISO boost: might as well switch to on -- allows you to go beyond
800 (but do you really need to do that?) Another question is "do
you really WANT to do that?" 800 is still quite usable, but 1600
and 3200 are pretty nasty. Whacking the noise with NoiseWare, Noise
Ninja, etc., is a requirement for anything printed larger than 5x7.
I've made a few fantastic 8x10s at ISO 3200 though. The key isn't
to eliminate the noise, but to control the noise. Otherwise the
pictures look mushy and watercolored. Noise removal at high ISO
settings tends to really muck up skintones. Just remove only what
you need to and the skin will maintain detail and look natural. If
you kill too much noise the hair gets all blocky. *
Chimp Mode... I use the histogram for "normal photography" where
I'm shooting JPEGs. For landscape and product photography I
typically use flashing highlights. I can always bring up the
shadows in post, but you can't recover the highlights. Just like in
B&W photography, you expose for the highlights and develop for the
shadows. I'm usually a 1/2 stop more conservative, though, on the
expose-to-the-right as it's easy to run out of gamma.
AG
~~~>-)>
barksbiz at threeshoes.co.uk
Mr C M I Barker
The Three Horseshoes
36 Mill Street
Gamlingay
Sandy
Bedfordshire SG19 3JW
YaC tel: +44 (0)7092 251126
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