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[OM] Re: Baffin Island Photos

Subject: [OM] Re: Baffin Island Photos
From: Tim Randles <tim.randles@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 07:50:02 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks for the detailed explanations, although I am a big baffled by some of 
the terminology. 

What is "noise?"

I usually keep the ISO setting on auto, it is possible that I didnt get it set 
right, we were flying about 1000 ft in a Skyvan, and the typical valley was a 
hard shot to get because we were moving very fast.

I'm going back up in a few more days, no exact date yet, and if the weather 
co-opeates, I'll have opportunity to re-visit these locations and try for some 
more images, I'll print this message and use it to adjust the settings, and 
I'll shoot it in RAW format, for better post-processing.

I did shoot a couple sunflower pics yesterday with an ant on the flower,
in the daily living gallery
http://timrandles.fotopic.net, and there is a couple other pics taken with my 
old 35 mm film Oly, ( one of the best presents I ever got, wish I still had 
it..)

Cheers.. and thanks !
Tim

Moose <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: LostKase wrote:
> Tim,
>  The post processing I played with made the picture stand out. I pray Moose 
> will weigh in with his adjustments. Nice picture!  
I agree, there are some nice shots here. As predicted, I've done some 
alternate versions of a few of them 
..
> I have become a slave to post processing. The control of contrast and 
> exposure compensation has re-invigorated alot of my so-so exposures. You have 
> a nice eye, don't let anyone discourage you. Just watch your histogram as you 
> take the picture.You merely need a little practice with a editing package. 
You know I am a serious post-processor. Yet a little more understanding 
and care in camera settings can help too. Especially if, as I assume, 
you are either shooting JPEGs or converting RAW with the camera 
defaults. Specifically:

All the Baffin Island shots I checked were taken at iso 100. That's a 
way to be sure of optimum sensor performance and minimum noise. However, 
in the case of 'typical valley', that has resulted in a poorer result 
than using a higher iso would have given. My alternate version of this 
image improves many qualities, but has an odd, unnatural look to it. The 
reason is simple; considerable, vibration induced blurring of the image.

Click on the image to see a full pixel sample. Notice all the blurring 
of the banks of the river and the bright thingies that should be single 
points, but are squiggles. These problems aren't very obvious in a 
reduced size version of the low contrast original, but give an odd look 
to the alternate version. This is a case where any noise from iso 400 
and probably even 800 would affect the result less than the consequences 
of inadequate shutter speed.

The rough rule of thumb for minimum shutter speed based on focal length 
is 1/fl for 35mm. For 4/3 format, that becomes 1/(2xfl), or 1/300 for 
150mm. At 1/250, this shot is just on the edge for someone with steady 
hands on firm ground. Taken from what I assume is a smallish plane, 
vibration becomes a serious issue. I'm guessing from the 1/250 result 
that at least 1/1000, and probably faster, would be needed for a sharp 
image. By the way, when taking shots from something that vibrates, make 
sure to let your body absorb as much as possible. Never let the camera 
or the hand(s) holding it touch the window or any part of the vehicle 
when taking the picture.

I suspect wide open at iso 4-800 would have resulted in a much sharper 
image and the ability to process it into a great one.

In another post, you mention a problem with blue creeping into your 
images. There are three major causes of these, none related to choice of 
lens:
1. Color of the light illuminating the subject. Outdoor light varies a 
great deal in color temperature, from the very warm (reddish) light when 
the sun is close to the horizon to the very cool (blueish) light of 
heavy overcasts and shadows. Auto WB can do a lot to correct for this in 
many situations, although it can be fooled by scenes where the overall 
average color isn't neutral gray 
..

In the case of  'Pond Inlet Skyline', you shot an overcast, very cool 
subject with WB set at 'Fine Weather'. It is at least primarily the 
camera setting that makes it too blue.

2. Shotting long distances through air can also cause a blue tint for 
the same reasons of light scattering that cause the sky to be blue. A 
haze filter and/or post processing can correct for this.

3. The blue sensor (or layer, for film) cannot distinguish between 
visible blue light and UV light that we don't see. So pictures taken 
anyplace with high UV will be too blue. I know this includes high 
altitudes and I think it may include places close to the poles, liek 
some where you take pictures. This generally CANNOT be fully and 
naturally corrected in processing. The only real solution is a filter. 
The 81 series is designed for this purpose. I would try an 81a on some 
of your long shots. Interestingly, it IS possible to correct for over 
filtering, but not for the reverse.

I corrected for excess blue in 'Pond Inlet Skyline' using 81 type 
filtering in PS. I wasn't there, so I don't know if I over or under did 
the correction, but it makes the presence of subtle amounts of other 
colors apparent without trying to make a cool place look sunny and warm. 
It also looked to me like the sun was low on the horizon, so there 
should be a slight warmth in the sky.
> Capturing the picture with the proper exposure range is a necessary evil but 
> post processing can save a bordline exposure. 
>   
None of the posted pictures looked to me to have much on the way of 
exposure problems. 'baffin_Island_Rock_Garden' has some blown highlights 
in the sky, but it's not a useful part of the image to me and I cropped 
it out.

 A couple of the histograms showed signs of processing in 8 bit that 
chopped things up, but didn't spread out, very narrow histograms. The 
narrow histograms are part of what Christos was talking about, no true 
whites or blacks.
> Bob
> Tim Randles  wrote: Glad you like the landscapes, I dont know how to do the 
> exposures or the post processing.. still learning..
>
> I thought there was a good variety of darks, colors etc.. oh well..
>   
Now there are more. :-)

Moose

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