I find that the easiest way to avoid the cave dweller look is use "room
lights" to provide bacground illumination about 1-2 stops below the main
light on the camera as seen here: <http://chucknorcutt.com/party.php>
Dragging the shutter (1/4 second, f/8 ISO 100 in this case) also allows
the incandescent lights to show. Without it they would be totally
washed out by the flash and wouldn't likely show at all or only as
little dots. In this shot there are two studio strobes off to the left
reflecting off the ceiling of the tent. The white interior of the tent
works very well here. But it still works well even with a less ideal
room. In this shot the background fill is much more obviously coming
from studio strobes at left.
<http://www.chucknorcutt.com/weddings/img_5467.htm>
Chuck Norcutt
AG Schnozz wrote:
> Chuck Norcutt wrote:
>
>>I find it's much easier to up the ISO dial on the 5D than
>>double the size, weight and price of the flash unit to pick
>>up an extra stop.
>
>
> This also has the benefit of raising the ambient exposure too.
> This is important if you want to avoid "cave-dweller weddings"
> where the background is black with the occasional set of
> eyeballs floating in the darkness.
>
> My usual technique, which I vary as necessary, is to set the
> 285HV on Auto-Yellow, camera ISO to 800 and the F-stop to F4.5.
> Typically, I'll place the camera in Aperture-Priority and will
> use the Exposure-Compensation to dial in -2 stops. If I step
> outside, I'll turn the ISO down as necessary to keep the shutter
> speeds below 1/180. (max sync speed). If the room is especially
> dark or the distance is greater, I'll bump the ISO up to 1600.
>
> Oh, I am using the Lumiquest UltraBounce with the flash head set
> up at a 45 degree angle. The results of these pictures are
> remarkably natural and have nearly no indication that flash was
> used on the photos.
>
> The Stroboframes are THE way to go. Gotta love em.
>
> AG
>
>
>
>
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