> Old studio flash units like old portable flash units can
> have voltage levels measured in hundreds of volts.
Regarding Vivitar flashes for a second: It is true that the
oldest units had high-voltage triggers, but you have to get a
pretty old one for that. Unfortunately, it' hard to tell what
is ancient and what is essentially brand new since there is
absolutely no outward indication to differentiate between a 1978
Vivitar 283 and one bought brand new in 2005. I *think* all
285HV flashes are ok, though.
As a general rule, I don't buy used flash units. Not because of
trigger voltage issues, but because they tend to yellow with
time and throw your white-balance off. Also, the capacitors
tend to age and are suspectable to shorting out. The units will
fail at the most inopportune time. However, after 20 years I've
only had one cook on me during a "for hire" shoot. Can you say
"meltdown"?
Older studio flash gear is definitely a problem. Some of the
older stuff will definitely fry your equipment. What I don't
like about this, isn't so much the hazzard to the camera, but
that I'm the one getting poked half the time. More than once
I've grabbed the trigger wire and been zapped. For these, I
much prefer optical slaving. ;) Stick a $30 Wein sensor or even
a voltage isolator on the plug that looks like a 110V AC power
connector.
I'm budgeting for a new four-light studio lighting setup with
some new 'brellas and softboxes. It'll be nice having all new
flash equipment with well-behaved color balance.
AG
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