It's also very important to note that, from the OM-2 onward, you should
only use silver oxide batteries. Don't use alkaline or any other
chemistry. The cameras are all critically dependent on maintaining a
minimum voltage level and will refuse to function (mirror will lock in
the up position with shutter closed) if the voltage falls too low.
Silver oxide batteries (like the now banned mercury batteries in the
OM-1) have the characteristic that they maintain a nearly flat voltage
level until just before they die. Alkalines, however, start a rapid
voltage decline as soon as they're put into use. It doesn't take long
with alkaline batteries in OM bodies before the voltage is too low to
operate the camera even though the battery may still be able to deliver
a strong current flow.
Batteries near end of life can also cause intermittent failures. At one
point the battery may have too little voltage but then recover after
being unused for a while. But they'll soon fall below the threshold
again after being placed back in service.
The best rule for OM's is to replace the batteries if it doesn't operate
correctly... even if you think they're new or are supposed to be new.
Lots of old stock around still on someone's shelf. There are some other
specifics too such as tightening bottom plate screws to assure a good
ground and some bodies with black battery cover caps which don't make a
good ground because of paint residue on the threads. Replace any black
body battery cap with silver.
The best silver oxide battery around used to be the Eveready 376 but I
think that battery has been superseded by another with slightly lesser
capacity but I can't recall the model #.
Chuck Norcutt
Moose wrote:
> Tim Taylor wrote:
>> Just subscribed to this list and found this thread. I have just
>> recently bought into the older OM system. Currently I have a C-8080
>> that I shoot digital with but miss my older Nikon 35mm system. But had
>> heard so many good things about the OM system that I found an older gent
>> selling his system and purchased it from him for very little. Currently
>> have a OM2n, winder 2, 24/2.8, 50/3.5, 75-150/4, 300/4, plus odd
>> filters, etc.
>>
>> I would really like to get the OM4 or 4t but not sure I can afford it.
>> What is the price for your black OM4t?
>>
> Welcome, Tim!
>
> You should be aware that the OM-4 is functionally almost identical to
> the OM-4T from an image making standpoint and the OM-4T and OM-4Ti are
> identical cameras with different labels from different areas of the world.
>
> The significant difference is that the 4T(i) can use the F280 flash in
> it's special high speed sync mode.
>
> Smaller issues are that the 4 ate batteries a little too fast and the
> 4T(i) has titanium top and bottom plates. And it's a little less likely
> that you will unintentionally change the iso when dialing in exposure
> compensation, but that's about it.
>
> Of possible interest is the fact that there are a surprising number of
> OM-4 bodies with the "T" circuit in them from repairs. That's what I use
> as everyday cameras.
>
> If you haven't already discovered them, there are several really useful
> and informative sites out on the web created by list members:
>
> First, Mark Dapoz's site where you can find out how to tell if n OM-4
> has one of the the newer circuits.
> http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/olympus_hw_full.html
> http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/OM-4_circuits.html
>
> Then the eSIF reference put together by Hans van Veluwen from the
> original Oly sales references material.
> http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif.htm
>
> Then Gary Reese's invaluable lens tests:
> http://members.aol.com/olympusom/lenstests/default.htm
>
> And Lee Hawkins' compilation of all sorts of good stuff produced by
> several list members:
> http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/photo.shtml
>
> Moose
>
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