> From: "Piers Hemy" <piers@xxxxxxxx>
>
> Khen's images are here:
> <http://www.hemy.me.uk/img/House 200dpi.jpg>
> <http://www.hemy.me.uk/img/House 300dpi.jpg>
> <http://www.hemy.me.uk/img/House 600dpi.jpg>
First off, flat tonality. Go into your favorite photo editor (I use
Aperture for about 90% of what I used to do in Photoshop these days)
and set "auto levels". There are variations of this; for a monochrome
you probably want the one that normalizes the data in all three
channels separately.
Another thing to consider if it's a low-priced scanner is to discard
the blue channel. It's always the worst, and is progressively worse
on cheaper scanners. I'd use a "channel mixer" to do that job. Map
the output to grayscale, set the green and red channels at 100%, and
set the blue channel to 0%.
Now use the rubber stamp or healing tool on the blotches and dust specs.
At this point, it's going to need some sharpening. I'd use
Photoshop's "Unsharp Mask..." at about 150%, 1.2 radius, and unless
previous steps have "raised the grain," use 0-4 for threshold.
More details on this on the last page of:
http://www.bytesmiths.com/Courses/PhotoshopForPhotographers.pdf
At this point, I don't see any reason to try anything else except
software. But if I were to re-shoot, I'd use the ZD 50/2 with a
polarizer and crossed polarizers on the macro twin flash heads.
:::: Under capitalism, man exploits man. Under communism, it's just
the opposite. -- John Kenneth Galbraith ::::
:::: Jan Steinman <http://www.VeggieVanGogh.com> ::::
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