Beautiful enhancements.
Jim Nichols
Tullahoma, TN USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Moose" <olymoose@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <olympus@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:21 PM
Subject: [OM] Re: Some photos
> Wiliam Wagenaar wrote:
>> Moose Moose "Moosed" two of my photos:
>>
>> < <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/CrossWindow.htm>
>> http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/CrossWindow.htm>
>>
>> and
>>
>> < <http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/Pastoor.htm>
>> http://www.moosemystic.net/Gallery/Others/Wagenaar/Pastoor.htm>
>>
>> -----
>>
>> Thanks a lot Moose, you show what is possible with both shots.
> Well, you know, a couple of the guys sort of made it a challenge. ;-)
>> I especially like the effect of the treatment on the crucifix shot.
> Thanks. I wasn't sure it was possible, but it came out rather well.
>> The second one with the wooden door is a bit over the top for my liking,
>> but is does show a lot more detail in the wood.
> Sometimes I do go over the top a bit. I figure one can go somewhere in
> between once the far end is known. I alsays save a PSD file with at
> least original and fully adjusted layers. That way, it's a snap to move
> along the continuum between them. I'd like to know a way to do that in
> the web page.
>> Would you be so kind to elaborate on what you have done to both of them?
>> I xcan then try to recreate your treatment on the originals.
>>
> Ooof! The door is fairly easy. I made a mask layer of the glass and used
> a bit of Curves to make it a little richer. I used LCE, Curves and maybe
> Levels on the wood. It mostly LCE that brings out the grain detail in
> the wood. The other adjustments are for tonal placement.
>
> There are five layers in the PSD I saved of the cross shot, and I'm
> pretty sure there were others in the process. What the layers make me
> think I did is:
>
> - Convert to 16 bit. Essential for this much tonal manipulation.
>
> - New layer(1) to use Levels to move the midpoint to lighten the overall
> image.
>
> - New layer(2) for vignette correction.
>
> - New layer(3) from Background for Shadow-Highlight to bring the windows
> waaay down.
>
> - Select only the windows and apply as a mask to layer(3).
>
> - New layer(4) for sharpening with FM Intellisharpen II. This retains
> the mask from (3), so sharpening only affects the windows.
>
> - New layer(5) for a second round of sharpening with FM Intellisharpen II.
>
> - Paint the mask carried over from (4) to (5) to let some of the
> sharpening show through on the cross itself.
>
> If working with the full size original, you will probably have to do the
> sharpening at the/each final display/print size, as downsizing swallows
> much sharpening.
>
> I do all the layers to give flexibility. For example, if I decide later
> that I want to retain some of the vignetting, I can simply adjust the
> opacity of that layer.
>
> I think that covers it.
>
> Moose
>
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