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Re: [OM] Using flashes with the E series cameras

Subject: Re: [OM] Using flashes with the E series cameras
From: "Ken Norton" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2008 10:55:27 -0600
If I understand your question...

You probably have the camera in an Auto-Exposure mode.  This is not a
problem--in fact when I use the Vivitar 285HV flash on my E-1, I have the
E-1 in Aperture-Priority mode most of the time.  However, certain guidelines
must be followed. Here is my configuration in the E-1 which I use for indoor
flash work. I'll modify a setting or two as necessary for specific
conditions. But this is my starting configuration from my memory-reset #2
for indoor event work.

1. Aperture Priority
2. WB 5300-1
3. Aperture of f4.5
4. ESP
5. Exposure-Compensation of -2 stops.
6. ISO 500
7. The Vivitar 285HV is set on Auto-Yellow

So what happens is this:  The camera is really not aware of the presence of
the flash and will take a picture of the naturally lit room.  Depending on
conditions and photographer's mood, I'll vary the exposure-compensation from
-0.5 to -2.0.  This has absolutely no bearing on the flash exposure as it
ONLY changes the shutter speed.  If the shutter speed gets too high, you'll
need to change settings to the "daylight memory-reset (which in my case is
#3) or "natural daylight-no flash" which in my case is #1.  Or just alter
the exposure compensation. Regardless, you MUST keep an eye on the camera's
shutter-speed to make sure it stays within an acceptable range.

As you have nailed down the ISO and aperture, the only thing that moves
around is the shutter-speed.  And as long as you are within the max sync
speed, shutter-speed has absolutely no bearing on the flash exposure.  The
flash exposure is determined by the flash's sensor which is measuring
reflected light.  Depending on the quality of the flash's sensor, (of which
a Vivitar 285HV has a good one), the subject will be well lit.

One advantage to this particular configuration is that I'm almost always
shooting RAW, so if the flash fails to fire, it is just a simple matter of
bumping up the exposure during conversion to "save" the picture.

AG
-- 
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