I meant to add that you may have better luck with the f/8 auto range if
you raise the ISO to 400 on both camera and flash.
Dr. Flash
Chuck Norcutt wrote:
> Uh, oh! I just realized (checking the eSIF because I've never owned
> one) that the T20 doesn't have a bounce head. Not good. Best used in a
> bounce grip then but auto mode can't be used on the T20 or T32 because
> the sensor moves with the flash. Without a bounce grip or some sort of
> improvised bounce reflector you're limited to direct flash. With the
> T20 and T32's low profiles in the hot shoe you're into big time red-eye.
>
> The T20's coverage angle is designed for a maximum angle of coverage
> equal to a 35mm lens on an OM. So set your E420's focal length to no
> less than 1/2 of that or about 17mm. Set the shutter speed to about
> 1/15 second, ISO to 100 and the aperture according to the shooting
> distance read from the calculator panel. Pick a shooting distance that
> you can likely maintain in the confines of a room in the house... say 8
> feet. The T20's guide number is fixed at 66 feet. Dividing 66 by 8
> (what the calculator panel is doing) yields an aperture of 8.25... let's
> call if f/9 to the nearest third stop.
>
> Now test the exposure. Drape something white like a shirt or towel over
> the back of a chair. Stand 8 feet away and take a test shot. Examine
> the exposure for blown highlights. Now adjust for the "real" guide
> number. Open the aperture a stop or so until you do see blown
> highlights and then back off a bit. Experiment with "dragging the
> shutter"... using slower shutter speeds to collect more ambient light.
> You may be able to go down to about 1/4 second if there's no fast
> subject movement. Recheck for blown highlights after changing the
> shutter speed. Also make sure that the shutter speed and aperture in
> use are not sufficient for an exposure without assistance from the
> flash. Perhaps that was your overexposure problem. If the ambient is
> sufficient for a good or near good exposure adding the flash will
> definitely result in overexposure.
>
> But my real advice is use a different flash, one with a bounce head.
>
> Dr. Flash
>
> AS wrote:
>> I set the camera in manual??! That was the first time I have ever
>> used a T-20 for anything. I am not familiar with the ins and outs of
>> that flash. Give me some time!
>>
>>
>> --- On Thu, 12/25/08, Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Chuck Norcutt <chucknorcutt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re:
>>> [OM] T-20 safe on E? To: "Olympus Camera Discussion"
>>> <olympus@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Thursday, December 25, 2008,
>>> 12:06 AM I think setting to manual overexposes the photo if the
>>> photographer hasn't set the camera properly. :-)
>>>
>>> Dr. Flash
>>>
>>> AS wrote:
>>>> T-20 seems to work fairly well with the E-420.
>>> Although I prefer the
>>>> T-32. Photographing with the T-20 is a little awkward.
>>> Works best in
>>>> the first auto setting. Setting to manual completely
>>> over-exposes the
>>>> photo.
>>>>
>>>> E-420 handles OK for a little bugger. I think the
>>> E-500 had better
>>>> feel and build. The 14-42 focuses slowly.
>>>>
>>>> Interesting tip that I found on a website:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Tip: Although the E-420 has three “official”
>>> autofocus points,
>>>> here’s a trick that will extend their number and
>>> help you in
>>>> fast-changing backlit situations: With Live View and
>>> Imager AF
>>>> active, turn on the camera’s Face Detection mode to
>>> extend the AF
>>>> area to eleven points and then turn on Shadow
>>> Adjustment. With this
>>>> particular combination of settings, the camera will
>>> track and lock
>>>> focus on the subject, and shadow adjustment will
>>> automatically extend
>>>> the range of visible detail in the shadow areas."
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
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>>
>>
>>
>
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