For me to produce the kind of result you desire, I have to clip into
the foot of the image quite a ways (not just into the toe but into the
rise). I have better success pulling the whole curve down a little or
else just the lower half.
But Kodachrome 25 is characteristically lower in contrast than KR64.
Something of what you are seeing may be just a characteristic of the
film.
I looked at color balance issues again, comparing my CRT with my
laptop. The color looks pretty good on the CRT, a little worse on the
LCD. The CRT is calibrated, so I will just stick with that, since I
have no idea what other people are really seeing.
Joel W.
On Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 12:03 PM, C.H.Ling<ch_photo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I usually use level to remove/reduce "excessive space" on both side of the
> histogram but avoid cut off the ends. If I found the color need balance I
> will use curve tool, it is more flexible. Color adjustment for scanned image
> is difficult especially with people as subject. Honestly say, I just learnt
> some additional ones after scanned and adjusted for more than 10K
> slides/negative recently but I will not redo them even I found some will
> benefit from the technique as they already delivered and accepted by the
> customer :-).
>
>
> C.H.Ling
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joel Wilcox"
>
> Thanks for looking, Ling. Vuescan produces a scan that is quite low
> in contrast, which is better than the opposite, so I could probably
> still improve the images and work with several images to improve
> contrast. The profile just gives me a limited starting point, so I
> don't follow it slavishly other than that. Kodachrome is notoriously
> difficulty to scan with the Sprintscan, for some reason. I'm just
> trying to get the scans into the ballpark, so to speak.
>
> I don't have a color histogram once leaving Vuescan, but I did notice
> that I have needed to pull back blue in a number of scans. I have to
> do some increase of saturation to get the correct impression of light
> intensity in many cases, including 123. I agree that one is not quite
> right. I also did some perspective correction on that one as well.
>
> I work up the images in AdobeRGB and convert only for web images.
> Perhaps there is some issue with that as well. Thanks for the
> feedback.
>
> Joel W.
>
> On Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 11:13 AM, C.H.Ling<ch_photo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> Joel, there are some nice shots, I especially like 129, thanks for
>> sharing.
>>
>> On a few of them I found the contrast a little low, they seem not
>> reproducing the actual scenes like 110 and 114. The shadow tone of some
>> are
>> shifted like 123 (with blue clipping). I don't know if this is a profile
>> issue, I never trust one profile can suit all even on the same roll of
>> film,
>> I just trust my eyes, histrogram and RGB values.
>>
>> C.H.Ling
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Joel Wilcox"
>>
>>> When Kodak announced the end of Kodachrome, I went to my film freezer
>>> to find 15 remaining rolls, 11 of which was KM25. This film has been
>>> frozen, thawed, and refrozen several times. Last summer when I turned
>>> off the electricity before evacuating our home during the flood, I
>>> forgot about my film freezer. Basically, the film sat in a defrosted
>>> refrigerator for a month. Fortunately, all the film was in ziplock
>>> bags within their plastic canisters. Still. This film doesn't owe me
>>> anything at this point.
>>>
>>> I decided, mostly in light of Dwayne's announcement about
>>> discontinuing processing after 2010, to shoot the Kodachrome until it
>>> is gone, concentrating on normal scenes around my home and environs.
>>> I am documenting places and things I pass everyday, or often, as a
>>> time capsule on film. Within that stricture, I am also trying to
>>> follow the best light to get the best results for this magic-hour
>>> film.
>>>
>>> To my eyes, the film looks no worse for the wear. I am pleased in
>>> that I think that I am the weak link in this project. Judge for
>>> yourself.
>>>
>>> For this first roll, I shot every frame with my OM-4 using fast Zuikos
>>> (28/2, 50/1.2, and 85/2) as all were handheld shots with KM25. A lot
>>> of f4 in the mix. Multispot metering for each frame and no
>>> bracketing. I metered very carefully with apparent success, if I may
>>> say so. The OM-4 is really made for shooting slide film economically!
>>>
>>> Scanning via Polaroid Sprintscan 4000. Vuescan software. I boosted
>>> color brightness for red and decreased it for blue to get color
>>> balance matching the film, plus a basic curves adjustment that seems
>>> to work well for all scans, so these settings have been saved as a
>>> profile (.ini file) in Vuescan. In Photoshop, the highlight-shadow
>>> tool has been invaluable, not so much to pull up shadows but to match
>>> the dynamic range of the film more closely, particularly important for
>>> the highlights.
>>>
>>> The scans are mostly full-frame renditions of the actual slide,
>>> without serious cropping or adjustments, but there are exceptions
>>> where, for example, persepctive adjustment at the moment of shooting
>>> may have left a large vacant area at the bottom of the frame, etc.
>>> Here and there I have done a bit of perspective correction in software
>>> as well, particularly if my in-camera correction was not quite
>>> perfect. Sharpening was done using two light passes to get the
>>> original scan into some kind of basic shape and once with a very light
>>> pass of the web image through Intellisharpen.
>>>
>>> Warning: Flickr link:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/99378213@N00/sets/72157621744074263/
>>>
>>> I suggest finding the "slideshow" link on the page to view these.
>>> Once the slideshow is underway, click "Options" to make certain
>>> "embiggen" is NOT clicked. Then you'll be able to see the film scans
>>> at the size intended (around 800 pixels on the long side).
>>>
>>> Kodachrome forever ... (sniff)
>>>
>>> Joel W.
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